High Idle.........

Rory

Rory

Lifer
Thats cool John, something to look into anyway just to rule it out. :)

Ive ordered a brand new CTS, just to rule it out. I should have time on Friday to get another look at it. 12 hour night shifts dont help with time! :haha:
 
wildchild

wildchild

Member +
i had a mazda astina for abt a month and from d day i bought it, it was idling very high. i checked on d tps and the wire clip was removed. if i clip it back the car wont rev up. then i opened it up and had a check. it was screwed. then i seperated d pins as they were touching each other since the insulator was broken, fixed it back and the revving prob was ok once the connector was back on but the car still had a very high idle about 1500 to 2000. adjusted the throttle to the min and it reduced a bit. then found out that the pc valve on the rocker cover was broken and it was sucking in some air. repaired it and the revving reduced a bit more. but still it was idling at abt 1500. adjusting the distributor reduced it to 1200 but it was like an old man waking up from his bed in the morning. engine hesitates to rev up instantly when gas pedal is depressed. ignition timing retarded to be exact.
i was frustrated at this time. then i just happened to open the radiator cap as the engine seemed to get hotter than normal and found out that the gasket was blown. removed the head and to my utter dismay found that the cylinder head was cracked. it was easily visible and about 1 inch long. the crack was at the valves..
its still at the lathe workshop. must go get it to a place where they repair em or else buy a new one. could it have been a place for air to seep in through into the combustion chamber? i never might know :)

Hope rory gets a breakthrough soon!

& thanx 4 d reps :)
 
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Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
weeJohn said:
Pull the plug off the tps and link out the bottom 2 connections on the plug. That will make the ecu think its closed and rule out the tps, if there is a leak as well it will let it rev to about 1600 rpm and then cut the revs if its leaking air in somewhere else.
Click to expand...

2000rpm seems a little high, as John has said if the IDL signal is shorted to ground the ECU should cut fuel at approx 1600rpm and then return at approx 900rpm. If the idle is a steady 2000rpm then double and triple check the TPS and wiring, short the IDL terminal at the TPS connector and at the ECU and also confirm the E2 sensor ground has no resistance to earth (check the resistance between the middle pin of the TPS connector and body ground with the ignition ON). It's worth keeping in mind both the TPS and the THW sensors (along with everything else) use E2 for a ground so a problem here could account for the code 22 your seeing.

Regarding the idle speed itself, personally I would be looking for an inlet manifold air leak. The first thing to do is remove all vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold and block the ports off (would probably be best to leave the map sensor connected, just double check the hose is in good condition). If this has no affect on the idle speed, break out the WD40 and start spraying it around and see if has any affect on the idle speed.
 
350ep70gr

350ep70gr

Member +
Texx said:
2000rpm seems a little high, as John has said if the IDL signal is shorted to ground the ECU should cut fuel at approx 1600rpm and then return at approx 900rpm. If the idle is a steady 2000rpm then double and triple check the TPS and wiring, short the IDL terminal at the TPS connector and at the ECU and also confirm the E2 sensor ground has no resistance to earth (check the resistance between the middle pin of the TPS connector and body ground with the ignition ON). It's worth keeping in mind both the TPS and the THW sensors (along with everything else) use E2 for a ground so a problem here could account for the code 22 your seeing.

Regarding the idle speed itself, personally I would be looking for an inlet manifold air leak. The first thing to do is remove all vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold and block the ports off (would probably be best to leave the map sensor connected, just double check the hose is in good condition). If this has no affect on the idle speed, break out the WD40 and start spraying it around and see if has any affect on the idle speed.
Click to expand...

Nice input Terry! As always dyde!

Rory have you checked the two hoses at the back of the plenum going to the power steering rack as someone said? What is the vaccum reading when on high idle?
Also at the side of the trottle boby near the spring it is a nanual adjustment of the throthle. Make sure this is tight and well adjusted. Or even better remove the cable do the throttle closed by the manual adjustment screw and turn the adjustment of the idle speed on the top all the way in.If she idles high again then for sure you need to recheck for a leak. (after you mess with the trotle stop adjustment screw you may need to recalibrate your tps sensor)
Check also the pipe from the runner to the oem fpr.

Chris
 
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weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
Might be as well to physically check the throttle plate is closed as well.

12 hour nightshifts and you are not fit for doing a bit after? Sure you sleep most of the night anyway, you should be fresh as a daisy lol. I do them too and have tried working at the car after as well mate. It gets really funny when after a while your brain just seems to stop telling your hands what to do and you just end up standing there looking at it lol.
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
between the manifold and the throttle body there is a paper gasket,

there is a possibility that this is leaking, sounds more like the cause as you said it got gradually worse as the track session went on,

it's worth a shot
 
M

Murray

Member +
Chris- the power steering feeds i think are looped at the rack, and plugged up at the manifold.

John- Im pretty sure he has done this already.

sxturbo- Yeah it has been replaced.

Terry- Ive no doubt you will give him a headache with what you have wrote:haha:
He hates electrics:homer:

Murray
 
Rory

Rory

Lifer
Ill give the throttle body and TPS a good going over again, and try the bridging out etc.
Im sure it will give me more of a head ache yet! :thumbs:

Aye John i could but id rather get to my bed, the brain is starting to get slower by the time i get home! :haha: I would just end up getting pi$$ed off even more with it! lol.
 
S

STARLET N/A

Member +
When i had a problem similar to this, it was the cold start valve.

when the car is at idle, squeeze the pipes that are under the throttle body and see if the idle drops.

i ended up completely blocking them off and the coolant pipes because you wont need them after doing that.
 
Rory

Rory

Lifer
Usually that would make the idle higher.....

I blocked the TB pipes off last year and couldnt get the idle down at all. Was down to the wax stat not getting any heat, thereefor keeping it on the cold start.

Ill give it a go though :thumbs:
 
Rory

Rory

Lifer
Theres no way im putting my hand oer the inlet manifold when its running! :haha:
It will try and pull it in!

Anyway got a little bit further today.
Replaced the CTS and its helped alot! Idle now down to 1100rpm which is alot better than 2k rpm!!!

Tried bridging the TPS connector but it done the same as plugging it in, so that rules out my TPS.
Emptied another can of WD40 over it but that done nothing....
Still to check the resistance of the earths yet

Next thing im going to check is the injectors, and the wax stat.
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
jayc-glanza17 said:
where is the wax stat located
Click to expand...


The wax stat is the bottom part of the throttle body.

waxstat.jpg
 
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