idle control valve
- Thread starter gtturboireland
- Start date
dark_knight
Member +
coolant in throttle body
@mechiel: coolant is designed to pass through the TB to avoid the throttle plate sticking closed or at WOT in especially cold driving conditions under extended periods of operation. if your car operates in climate that sees any snow then leave it alone, else, if you are in the tropics like me, then you can ditch it..
@mechiel: coolant is designed to pass through the TB to avoid the throttle plate sticking closed or at WOT in especially cold driving conditions under extended periods of operation. if your car operates in climate that sees any snow then leave it alone, else, if you are in the tropics like me, then you can ditch it..
Texx
Super Moderator
The 4E-FTE throttle body has a wax stat bolted to the bottom, it's job is to allow additional air past the throttle plate at idle when the engine is cold. When the wax is heated by the coolant passing through the throttle body, the stat closes and the additional air no longer enters the inlet manifold. If you remove the coolant flow through the throttle body it will effectively leave an inlet manifold air leak at idle. The only way to avoid this is to block off the inlet port of the wax stat.
dark_knight
Member +
melted wax at optimum temp?
@Texx: & where is the inlet port of the wax stat that you speak of oh mighty one..? got a pic you can refer us to..?
ps: is the heat transferred from the block to the TB even with the TB coolant bypass enough to melt the wax and close the additional air passage when the engine is at optimum operational temp..?
@Texx: & where is the inlet port of the wax stat that you speak of oh mighty one..?
got a pic you can refer us to..?ps: is the heat transferred from the block to the TB even with the TB coolant bypass enough to melt the wax and close the additional air passage when the engine is at optimum operational temp..?
Texx
Super Moderator
IIRC (my memory is a little fuzzy these days though) the inlet port is lower one in front of the throttle plate.
I'd doubt the heat transferred through the inlet manifold would be enough to keep the stat closed, when testing them off the car it normally takes a fair amount of boiling water to get the stat to move.
I do have currently, a throttle body in work stripped down and hung up above my bench. If you that interested I could take a few reference photos tomorrow for you.
I'd doubt the heat transferred through the inlet manifold would be enough to keep the stat closed, when testing them off the car it normally takes a fair amount of boiling water to get the stat to move.
I do have currently, a throttle body in work stripped down and hung up above my bench. If you that interested I could take a few reference photos tomorrow for you.
dark_knight
Member +
more TB pix please
@Texx: that would be great mate. will appreciate it loads.
fyi, i have my TB coolant-bypass in place and have not experienced any problems with idling etc so i guess i musta done-did-it right..
just curious so that i can learn some more on the topic and perhaps figure out possible problems int eh future should they arise..
@Texx: that would be great mate. will appreciate it loads.
fyi, i have my TB coolant-bypass in place and have not experienced any problems with idling etc so i guess i musta done-did-it right..
just curious so that i can learn some more on the topic and perhaps figure out possible problems int eh future should they arise..
ok. I'm living in Malaysia, hot for all seasons.
I didn't connect the coolant passthrough to the throttle body.
when the engine is cold or medium, my rpm is around 1.3-1.5k
but when the engine is hot (looking at the oil temp around 100c) the rpm dropped til 800+
is there anything to do to the idle valve? I'm using a 5efhe ACIS intake and throttle body...
I didn't connect the coolant passthrough to the throttle body.
when the engine is cold or medium, my rpm is around 1.3-1.5k
but when the engine is hot (looking at the oil temp around 100c) the rpm dropped til 800+
is there anything to do to the idle valve? I'm using a 5efhe ACIS intake and throttle body...
Texx
Super Moderator
I wouldn't worry too much, it seems your engine is idling OK. The only downside is that the IACV (it's also located at the bottom of the throttle body on a 5E-FHE??) may be working a little overtime to keep the idle speed down when the engine is warm. If you short out terminals Te1 and E1 in the diagnostic port you'll be able to see where the base idle speed is when the engine is warm. If it's above 900rpm then turn the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body to bring the base idle down 100rpm or so. That should take some of the work load off of the IACV.
MARK@CMBAUTOS
Trader
id need a picture mate to know what it is
can you point it out here
ur car still like this ?
ur bov is piped wrong ! its not ment to got threw the high low boost switch its ment to go direct to the inlet manifold !
dark_knight
Member +
flutter or dump
@MARK@CMBAUTOS: i stand to be corrected by corofin12345 but you may have missed a string on here earlier where he was saying that his plumbing is like that for a reason.. & the reason is, that with this setup, he can choose whether to have turbo chatter/flutter or the dump valve whoosh just by pushing the turbo button (which now of course controls the air route to the BoV).
on a slightly different topic, i drool over the look of this engine bay. pretty mint and colorful.. lol
@MARK@CMBAUTOS: i stand to be corrected by corofin12345 but you may have missed a string on here earlier where he was saying that his plumbing is like that for a reason.. & the reason is, that with this setup, he can choose whether to have turbo chatter/flutter or the dump valve whoosh just by pushing the turbo button (which now of course controls the air route to the BoV).
on a slightly different topic, i drool over the look of this engine bay. pretty mint and colorful..
lol
MARK@CMBAUTOS
Trader
@MARK@CMBAUTOS: i stand to be corrected by corofin12345 but you may have missed a string on here earlier where he was saying that his plumbing is like that for a reason.. & the reason is, that with this setup, he can choose whether to have turbo chatter/flutter or the dump valve whoosh just by pushing the turbo button (which now of course controls the air route to the BoV).
on a slightly different topic, i drool over the look of this engine bay. pretty mint and colorful..
fair play
dark_knight
Member +
mint idea
@MARK@CMBAUTOS: no problem mate..
it's a pretty mint idea, corofin12345's that is, don't you think..?
@MARK@CMBAUTOS: no problem mate..
it's a pretty mint idea, corofin12345's that is, don't you think..?
cheadder.ep82
Member +
I have a similar problem but my car only revs up when hot rev.s up to about 2k. i cleaned the idle control value but i was told to replace a valve to the right of the throttle body. Any know Wat this valve is? I don't know how to put up pics sorry
thanks... i just realize that I'm using a 4E-FTE TB instead of the the 5E-FHE.
Maybe I should put it this way, if the air con compressor is on + the engine is warm/hot, the rpm will dropped til 700+ and when i turned the steering during i idle, the rpm will drop til 400-500+ which is almost engine stall
but if i off the air con compressor + the engine is warm/hot, the rpm is around 1k and if i turn the steering during idle, it only dropped til 800+ which is acceptable. does this something to do with idle control valve or that my air con compressor has something missing? I'm using a TV-10 compressor
dark_knight
Member +
air-con & PS
@mechiel: sounds perfectly normal to me. all the stuff you've mentioned, air-con and power steering all put some extra load on the engine which would cause such behavior.. engine should self-adjust after a few seconds though..
@mechiel: sounds perfectly normal to me. all the stuff you've mentioned, air-con and power steering all put some extra load on the engine which would cause such behavior.. engine should self-adjust after a few seconds though..
Texx
Super Moderator
There should be a VSV on a bracket located behind the inlet manifold with 2 hoses connected, one hose should be connected to the top of the throttle body and the other would normally be connected to the large port (the one closest to the throttle body) that is wound directly into the back of the inlet plenum. This VSV is electrically switched and so the connector needs to be plugged in for it to operate. When the AC is switched on the VSV allows a greater amount of air into the inlet manifold to increase the engines idle speed.
There should be an air control valve bolted into the top of the steering rack with 2 vacuum hoses connected, one hose should be connected to the bottom of the throttle body and the other would normally connect to the chamber pipe that runs across the back of the 4E-FTE inlet manifold to feed the IACV. This valve feeds the IACV with a greater amount of air when the steering rack is operated to prevent the idle speed from dropping excessively.
dark_knight
Member +
not in so many words..
what Texx has just said in very crisp and technical terms is what i was trying to say in my poor short sentence above.. lolest..
what Texx has just said in very crisp and technical terms is what i was trying to say in my poor short sentence above..
lolest..
corofin12345
Member +
lol, missed this.. ya had this setup for quite awhile..
as it was
[video=youtube;p89Hat_KARQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p89Hat_KARQ[/video]
as it is now
[video=youtube;Mf6RIUeKoJ4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mf6RIUeKoJ4[/video]
:flame:
The blue one is a vsv vaccuum switching valve I believe also for idle up ( the earlier engine bay picture in this post shows the blue connector on the right not the left like yours so bits have been moved around )