metal particles in engine oil ,im worried
- Thread starter nexia201
- Start date
nexia201
Member +
everything is possible the thing is that after he did he marked them so when i asked him if that was possible he told me no cos he had marked them now if he did that he should just exchange them and save me future hassle as he is going to get a lot of hassle to open oilpump so i will ask him again tonight !
nexia201
Member +
what stamp should i look for chris ?
Chris@CCM
Member +
its on one side rod at the join of the 2 caps il get u pix in 2 mins off to take one
EvilKnievel
Member +
ouch, either way any metal shavings of any sort on your dip stick never a happy sight.
nexia201
Member +
its not easy to see in the pix but u will get the idea it will be a letter and its stamped across the join so each 1/2 must line up its only on one side of the rod
there are no bloody marks on mine how is that possible? i checked them over and over but have no bloody marks
no there were no shavings on the dipstick cos the metal was so fine you wouldnt see it unless you empty the oil and check it properly
Chris@CCM
Member +
ive work on alot of these pal there should be marking there small thothere are no bloody marks on mine how is that possible? i checked them over and over but have no bloody marks
no there were no shavings on the dipstick cos the metal was so fine you wouldnt see it unless you empty the oil and check it properly
nexia201
Member +
nothing chris i looked and looked and looked but saw fuck all
i even lightly sanded a bit one of them to be sure but thanks for the good advise , now thinking of it could it be that the oil got fucked up by petrol draining in it an it lost its lubricating properties? as i turned down the boost for running it in and it was making fumes from the breather that were unbearable and burnt your eyes ,then added a bit of boost and it stopped.gorganl2000
Lifer
as chris told u nexia
all the stock rods i've seen have markings where the cap and rod meets...this is both in the 4e and 5e
it does seem strange that u cant find any
and petrol in your oil due to excessive richness can cause your bottom end to fail/knock
all the stock rods i've seen have markings where the cap and rod meets...this is both in the 4e and 5e
it does seem strange that u cant find any
and petrol in your oil due to excessive richness can cause your bottom end to fail/knock
finx
Member +
your crank prep method sounds correct. as long as you made sure every surface of the journal got the same amount of sanding then you will be ok.
repeat the process on the other 3 big end journals also.
it is possible that the caps have been replaced back to front when the engine was re assembaled but a good engine rebuilder would have noticed this right away as the crank would not have turned freely.
the conrods are line bored when the holes are machined out so every cap will only fit the rod it was fitted to when it was made. if the wrong cap is fitted to the wrong rod the crank will seize up and either not turn at all or require excessive force to turn.
if you take the drive belts off the crank pulley and put the gearbox in neutral you should be able to turn the crankshaft by hand.
the caps should slide on the rods easily, if any extra force is needed something wont be right. another thing to note is the cut outs in the cap and rod that the bearings slide into should be on the same side when the cap is put onto the rod and on e series engines you will notice this will be on the exhaust side of the engine.
the rods are often marked across the join as mentions by the other guys but i have seen some which are not marked. when ever you pull an engine apart you always mark the caps and rods with your own markings. dot punch or number punch is most common method.
its also possible that he may have put the caps on backwards, this will cause the same effect as having the caps on the wrong rod. and could possibly be worse for the engine as the oil squirters in the conrods would not have been working to cool down the pistons and lube the bores. damage due to this will be determined by how hard the engine was pushed while in the run in process and before the fault was discovered.
flow testing the oil pump is one way to do it but in all honesty i would be pulling it off and taking a look for myself. its to major component to just hope its ok. apart from checking for scoring or marks i would also be checking the clearances on the pump with some feeler gauges.
repeat the process on the other 3 big end journals also.
it is possible that the caps have been replaced back to front when the engine was re assembaled but a good engine rebuilder would have noticed this right away as the crank would not have turned freely.
the conrods are line bored when the holes are machined out so every cap will only fit the rod it was fitted to when it was made. if the wrong cap is fitted to the wrong rod the crank will seize up and either not turn at all or require excessive force to turn.
if you take the drive belts off the crank pulley and put the gearbox in neutral you should be able to turn the crankshaft by hand.
the caps should slide on the rods easily, if any extra force is needed something wont be right. another thing to note is the cut outs in the cap and rod that the bearings slide into should be on the same side when the cap is put onto the rod and on e series engines you will notice this will be on the exhaust side of the engine.
the rods are often marked across the join as mentions by the other guys but i have seen some which are not marked. when ever you pull an engine apart you always mark the caps and rods with your own markings. dot punch or number punch is most common method.
its also possible that he may have put the caps on backwards, this will cause the same effect as having the caps on the wrong rod. and could possibly be worse for the engine as the oil squirters in the conrods would not have been working to cool down the pistons and lube the bores. damage due to this will be determined by how hard the engine was pushed while in the run in process and before the fault was discovered.
flow testing the oil pump is one way to do it but in all honesty i would be pulling it off and taking a look for myself. its to major component to just hope its ok. apart from checking for scoring or marks i would also be checking the clearances on the pump with some feeler gauges.
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nexia201
Member +
no markings in my case
and it could be that it had petrol in the oil as i reduced the boost for running in and it was making a bad smell from breather which burnt your eyes so thats one good possibility as there wasnt excessive wear and there was also a sighn of low lubrication on the cams but does this lead to a fail in the bottom end when useing good oil?im useing total racing
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nexia201
Member +
the rods were put properly with the sqirters on the front and the caps were punch marked , when we assembled everything together as i said he did a test putting a piece of newspaper and the crank didnt turn but when you remove that it turn freely so he said it will be ok as for the pump im going to order a new one from toyota but tonight we are going to try and start it with an oil pressure gauge to see what pressure i have ad i will turn up a bit more the boost so to make sure its not rich until i get the wideband and can reprogram it myself as it seem to be too rich in places and too lean in others.
finx
Member +
so did you find an actual cause of the bearing failure?
i would still be putting an oil pressure gauge on it right away at the minimum and ideally you would be checking the oil pump too if not replacing it.
if you havent already done it, change your oil filter again also as it will be full of metal particles. which if they get through will just stuff your new bearings as well.
i would still be putting an oil pressure gauge on it right away at the minimum and ideally you would be checking the oil pump too if not replacing it.
if you havent already done it, change your oil filter again also as it will be full of metal particles. which if they get through will just stuff your new bearings as well.
nexia201
Member +
after considering many things i came up to the possible cause which would be fuel in the oil and i came to that as i had new oil in the engine for the running in whiich had particles then changed oil to the fully synth and still had particles and the wear on the bearings was slow and gradual unlike when there is oil starvation problems where the damage is fast and hard on the parts, i also tought this as i saw some scoring on the cams which is nothing as you cant feel it but the metal in some contact places had stains.I already fitted a gauge but as it is an electric one the sender unit was too big and i need a t-piece to fit both the sender and the oil pressure switch.
what i dont know is why this happened , the only thing i did different from the first time was that i turned down the boost for running in and im running an aftermarket ecu so maybe that was still pumping out a lot of fuel and the engine didnt have enough air to burn it all.
another thing is the bearings ,the ones i buy from toyota have a small squirting hole smaller than the hole in the rod now the acl ones i bought from Kon have a bigger hole (so i guess that squirts more oil on the cylinder wall ) would that make a difference to the lubrication of the pistons ? Is that why my bore was so polished on the front (where the squirters lubricate ) as there wasnt enough oil to lubricate the walls ??? I think i have said enough now lol so i leave it up to you guys maybe someone can answer some of my questions.