Oil advice and recommendations here

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

We don't personally use fully synthetic on the older engines, fine on full rebuilds we find and we rebuild a lot of Starlet engines but even for most we still use a semi synthetic, good quality ones, and we do use you as suppliers as well. More looking for information than saying you are wrong.

I understand your theorys and can't fault them, hell I am by no means an "oil" expert except that experience from our end has shown that problems do arise with fully synthetics on these engines.

I can completely understand that a 5w40 fully is the same as a 10w40 semi at operating temperatures but why when for instance when tapping occurs does a 10w 40 semi quiten it down when compared to a 5w 40 fully? I'm asking as I need an explanation as on paper the operating viscocity should be the same?

We all obviosuly want extra performance through less viscous drag but can you tell me more info on the above, more for my own learning as from what you recommend we just find too many issues and sticking to a semi 10w40 seems to work wonders.

Thanks for any help.

Toby

 

[cameroon95]

hi buddy can you recommend me one?

1998 Toyota Glanza v
1.3 turbo Engine
Lightly modified,- exhaust,dump valve,lowered. 10000km

road use
I live in North east scotland





cheers

 

[The_Notorious_C_A_T]

some interesting info in the thread.

Nice one Guy.

 

[Big_Daddy]

Just to ask, what temp does oil begin to freeze? I know water freezes below 0. lol frozen oil must be bad for cold engine. :-s

 

[sdutton007]

Model - EP82
Year - 1995

Any mods - TD04, optional LSD, 182.9BHP

Type of use (road/track) - Loads n loads of road driving

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) - Currently using castrol magnetec 10w40, castrol 80w90 for gearbox

I read on this forum somewhere that 5w40 is too thin and leaks out of the seals?

Also, arent synthetic oils meant to be bad for older cars for some reason?

Cheers

 

[littletodd18]

Hi Oilman, i did have a search to see if anyone had the same mods but most people have the same along with more.

Reccomendation for engine oil if you could please?

Model - EP82
Year - K Reg - 1993
Engine size/type - 1300cc Turbo

Any mods - Relocated cone air filter, Front mounted intercooler, boost increased to 0.8 bar, cat back system, dump valve.

Type of use - Road, used about 4 times a week in 1 hour intervals.

Any help is much appreciated.

Mike

 

[MWP]

I live in a warmer climate (Australia) compared to you folks.

Summer temps range from 20degC to 45degC.
Winter temps from 5degC to 20degC.

Im running a full-synth 10w40 (Penrite).
Info sheet on the oil is here: http://www.penrite.com.au/files/LYXCQK8721/Everyday Fully Synthetic Engine Oils.pdf

Is this suitable for my Starlet (1.3L, few mods, factory turbo, ~1bar boost)?
The car is mainly a daily driver, but also gets the occasional thrash through the hills and hillclimbs.

Thanks oilman!

 

[Mike_ep91]

Make:Toyota
Model: EP91 turbo
Year :1998
Engine size/type: 1300cc turbo

Any mods: 5zeigen cat back,fmic,mani,decat,

Type of use (road/track): road

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used): castrol magnatec 10w40



i would like to change the gearbox oil as it hasnt been done in a long while can you recommend oil for that also

 

[javieringo1]

Hi, helping a friend out with his 2004 yaris, engine 2nz-4e (1300 cc n/a) 44,000 km on it, feels pretty good, no leaks and 175-170-170-165 psi on the cylinders but it really needs and oil/spark plugs service. weather in our country is around 15-35 degrees celsius. daily driver in the city.

we've narrowed it down to this 3 options:

1st. Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40

http://www.motul.fr/uk/produits/index.html

2nd. mobil 10w30

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_10W-30.asp

3rd. Amsoil 5w30

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlf.aspx

damn having a hard time choosing one!help please!

 

[oilman]

Out of those, I'd go for the Motul X-Cess. It's a good oil and will be better at dealing with the temperature than the 5w-30 or 10w-30

 

[oilman]

We don't personally use fully synthetic on the older engines, fine on full rebuilds we find and we rebuild a lot of Starlet engines but even for most we still use a semi synthetic, good quality ones, and we do use you as suppliers as well. More looking for information than saying you are wrong.

I understand your theorys and can't fault them, hell I am by no means an "oil" expert except that experience from our end has shown that problems do arise with fully synthetics on these engines.

I can completely understand that a 5w40 fully is the same as a 10w40 semi at operating temperatures but why when for instance when tapping occurs does a 10w 40 semi quiten it down when compared to a 5w 40 fully? I'm asking as I need an explanation as on paper the operating viscocity should be the same?

We all obviosuly want extra performance through less viscous drag but can you tell me more info on the above, more for my own learning as from what you recommend we just find too many issues and sticking to a semi 10w40 seems to work wonders.

Thanks for any help.

Toby

Hi Toby

A 10w-40 semi is better at reducing knocking noise as it is a mineral based oil. They absorb sound better than synthetics, so that's the simple answer there. If you need more info about oils, have a look at these

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/technicalinfo.aspx

Cheers

Tim

 

[oilman]

Make:Toyota
Model: EP91 turbo
Year :1998
Engine size/type: 1300cc turbo

Any mods: 5zeigen cat back,fmic,mani,decat,

Type of use (road/track): road

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used): castrol magnatec 10w40



i would like to change the gearbox oil as it hasnt been done in a long while can you recommend oil for that also

I'd go for something like the Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40, it's the next step up from Magnatec and costs about the same

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-877-mot...line-and-diesel-engine-oil-100-synthetic.aspx

For the gearbox you need a 75w-90 GL4 or GL5, so have a look at these

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90.aspx

My choice would be either the Silkolene Silktran, Fuchs Sintopoid or Motul Motylgear.

Cheers

Tim

 

[oilman]

hi buddy can you recommend me one?

1998 Toyota Glanza v
1.3 turbo Engine
Lightly modified,- exhaust,dump valve,lowered. 10000km

road use
I live in North east scotland

cheers

Go for a 5w-40. It will give you good cold start protection as well as dealing with the temperature when you're having fun with it.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx.

You don't need to go for an expensive one, just something like the Fuchs Supersyn or Motul X-Cess

Cheers

Tim

 

[oilman]

I live in a warmer climate (Australia) compared to you folks.

Summer temps range from 20degC to 45degC.
Winter temps from 5degC to 20degC.

Im running a full-synth 10w40 (Penrite).
Info sheet on the oil is here: http://www.penrite.com.au/files/LYXCQK8721/Everyday Fully Synthetic Engine Oils.pdf

Is this suitable for my Starlet (1.3L, few mods, factory turbo, ~1bar boost)?
The car is mainly a daily driver, but also gets the occasional thrash through the hills and hillclimbs.

Thanks oilman!

The oil you're using should be ok, but it would be useful to have some oil temps , just to make sure. If they are over 110S a lot, it's probably worth changing to a 10w-50. I don't know what oils are available in Australia, but I believe the Silkolene bike oils are. If you need a 10w-50, have a look for the Silkolene Pro4 10w-50. It's fine in cars.

Cheers

Tim

 

[oilman]

Hi Oilman, i did have a search to see if anyone had the same mods but most people have the same along with more.

Reccomendation for engine oil if you could please?

Model - EP82
Year - K Reg - 1993
Engine size/type - 1300cc Turbo

Any mods - Relocated cone air filter, Front mounted intercooler, boost increased to 0.8 bar, cat back system, dump valve.

Type of use - Road, used about 4 times a week in 1 hour intervals.

Any help is much appreciated.

Mike

Model - EP82
Year - 1995

Any mods - TD04, optional LSD, 182.9BHP

Type of use (road/track) - Loads n loads of road driving

Additional info (max oil temps, current oil used) - Currently using castrol magnetec 10w40, castrol 80w90 for gearbox

I read on this forum somewhere that 5w40 is too thin and leaks out of the seals?

Also, arent synthetic oils meant to be bad for older cars for some reason?

Cheers

You both want very similar things from an oil point of view, basically a 5w-40 and I'd recommend a synthetic.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

People often say things like the car is too old to use a synthetic oil, but they never give a reason that makes sense. If they say it's because a 5w-40 is too thin compared to a 10w-40, that's nonsense. They are both the same viscosity at operating temps, but the 5w-40 is thinner when cold, so it gets around the engine quicker for better cold start protection. The 5w/10w part of the viscosity is measured on a different scale to the -40 bit as the w refers to winter and how quickly the oil flows at 0C. The -40 bit is when the oil is at 100C and, like almost everything, it's much thinner when hot. So the 5w or 10w bit is kind of irrelevant when it comes to leaks as the oil is many many times thinner when it's hot than cold, so if it's going to leak, it will leak when it's hot, so you'd get the same results with a 5w-40 or 10w-40. One of the chemists at Silkolene/Fuchs is a dedicated vintage car enthusiast and he uses synthetic oils in his own cars. He wouldn't do that if he thought that synthetics are bad for old cars.

There are a whole lot of things said about oil that are completely untrue. If you want to clear things up, have a look at these

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/technicalinfo.aspx

Cheers

Tim

 

[Toby@ToyTuning.com]

We don't personally use fully synthetic on the older engines, fine on full rebuilds we find and we rebuild a lot of Starlet engines but even for most we still use a semi synthetic, good quality ones, and we do use you as suppliers as well. More looking for information than saying you are wrong.

I understand your theorys and can't fault them, hell I am by no means an "oil" expert except that experience from our end has shown that problems do arise with fully synthetics on these engines.

I can completely understand that a 5w40 fully is the same as a 10w40 semi at operating temperatures but why when for instance when tapping occurs does a 10w 40 semi quiten it down when compared to a 5w 40 fully? I'm asking as I need an explanation as on paper the operating viscocity should be the same?

We all obviosuly want extra performance through less viscous drag but can you tell me more info on the above, more for my own learning as from what you recommend we just find too many issues and sticking to a semi 10w40 seems to work wonders.

Thanks for any help.

Toby

Hi Toby

A 10w-40 semi is better at reducing knocking noise as it is a mineral based oil. They absorb sound better than synthetics, so that's the simple answer there. If you need more info about oils, have a look at these

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/technicalinfo.aspx

Cheers

Tim

Appreciate the explanation cheers Tim.

T

 

[javieringo1]

If I use fully synthetic can I change to semi synthetic? :homer:

 

[oilman]

You can, but why would you?

Cheers

Guy

 

[Blak_Mamber]

Hey mate. Im using toyota 5W 30 in mine at the mo as i went to Toyota and the guy was adamant about me using this and not 10w 40 which i was using before. Should this be changed or is it ok? Im running standard boost & standard engine.

Thanks alot.

Lewis

 

[oilman]

5w-30 is fine, as is 5w-40, 10w-40, 0w-40 and 10w-30.

Cheers

Guy