texx, this is a diffrent engine, this one is fully forged mate, as far as im aware he mate around 270 on the turbo/engin.
So we can assume the cams are aligned correctly as the engine has proven results.
Have you had the crank pulley off to check the timing mark on the timing belt sprocket?
The mark on the crank pulley may line up with the marks on the cover, but it's been known for the damper in the pulley to slip and so the outer part of the pulley with the timing marker on may be out of alignment, so the pulley needs to come off to confirm the valve timing is 100% correct. If you've already checked this then we can assume the cause isn't cam/valve timing related.
im trying too run1.4-1.5br mate, from what ryans said its holding boost fine
As the turbo is holding the set boost we can assume the cause isn't turbo/boost control/wastegate related.
the power or torque drops off. which hes told me engine effiency. cams too be exact. but ive checked them time an time again. he also told me i need too dial them in? but ive no idea what this is myself.
Without having made some measurement of gas pressure and temperature in the exhaust manifold he'll be guessing it's a VE issue.
The cams don't need 'dialing in'. Your using stock cams that are geared together, the inlet and exhaust cams are aligned using the marks on the gears and then the exhaust cam is timed up to the crank using the 4E TDC mark on the cam sprocket and the TDC mark on the crank sprocket.
but the problem i have is why this has only happened wih mine. seems others dont get this issue
an not being an expert i aint gota clue what too do texx.
Out of interest what spark plugs are you using? Have they been removed for inspection?
Are the contacts on the rotor arm and distributor cap in good condition?
Have the valve clearances been checked (with the engine cold)?
Have you still got the homemade front exit exhaust? It could be worth swapping the exhausts to eliminate any blockage causing excessive exhaust back pressure.
As Rory has implied, it may be worth removing the mesh from the turbo, a decent air filter would be more beneficial.
I know it's more expense, but personally I would check the above, swap the exhaust, remove the mesh from the turbo, confirm the base timing is set correctly using a timing light and then get another run on a dyno. Maybe even take another set of plugs, leads and possibly an ignition coil with you just so you've got something to try whilst your there.