still wont start since run out fuel... getting to the point were want to break it
- Thread starter Dan-The-Glanza-Man
- Start date
Spoonz
Member +
didnt think u cud bend the valves on a 4e??
it sounds like a ignition timing problem why not try takin out the spark plugs and check there all ignitin in order the same has wen the cylinder is on its ignition stroke.
maybe get a straw stick it down where the spark plugs and see if it gets soaked in fuel
it sounds like a ignition timing problem why not try takin out the spark plugs and check there all ignitin in order the same has wen the cylinder is on its ignition stroke.
maybe get a straw stick it down where the spark plugs and see if it gets soaked in fuel
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
no problem b4 no its a 5e with head work on 5e its funny how all cyclinders are 80 psi mind you with king lead on and throttle shut
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
no didnt remove fuse what ones that ? and really alan dam well im only running 1.5 bar engines only done 2700miles god piss take still same with king lead off and full throttle 80 psi might check timming
X2 if you can get a hold of another comp tester that would be a good thing to try. You built the engine yourself? Am I right in thinkin that?
Hope you get it sorted mate it's startin to annoy me too now lol
My guess, is that the strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump is blocked.
Have you had the fuel pump out yet?
Blown the lines through with a compressor?
::EDIT::
If you weren't giving it massive amounts of beans, which I don't think you will have been, considering the fuel light would've been on, I think the fact that you have even compressions, just means the gauge is years out of calibration. Getting 80PSI on all four cylinders is something which the probability of happening is nil. When my engine went pop, No.2 dropped to 80PSI, when the piston had a chunk missing out of the ringlands, and at this pressure, the pot wasn't firing at all.
From what I've read with you feeling the temp of the exhaust runners, the car runs? So with that in mind, I think it's very safe to rule out the engine.
I'm a little lost as to why you've replaced ignition components, but it can never be a bad thing...
I would also be very tempted to rule out the fault code 24 that you've read up, too... Because that would simply not be caused by the issue of running out of fuel.
-Take the pipe from the fuel filter to the fuel rail off, and with your eyes covered, just turn on the ignition, and see if fuel begins to prime.. If it doesn't, you know the issue is between the rail and tank, if it does, the issue is between rail and engine.
If you do get fuel at the rail supply, then clean out the fuel rail with some neat petrol.
Obviously, at this point the rail will be off, so change the injectors for a set which you know work correctly, reassemble, and report your findings.
Hope this helps.
Have you had the fuel pump out yet?
Blown the lines through with a compressor?
::EDIT::
If you weren't giving it massive amounts of beans, which I don't think you will have been, considering the fuel light would've been on, I think the fact that you have even compressions, just means the gauge is years out of calibration. Getting 80PSI on all four cylinders is something which the probability of happening is nil. When my engine went pop, No.2 dropped to 80PSI, when the piston had a chunk missing out of the ringlands, and at this pressure, the pot wasn't firing at all.
From what I've read with you feeling the temp of the exhaust runners, the car runs? So with that in mind, I think it's very safe to rule out the engine.
I'm a little lost as to why you've replaced ignition components, but it can never be a bad thing...
I would also be very tempted to rule out the fault code 24 that you've read up, too... Because that would simply not be caused by the issue of running out of fuel.
-Take the pipe from the fuel filter to the fuel rail off, and with your eyes covered, just turn on the ignition, and see if fuel begins to prime.. If it doesn't, you know the issue is between the rail and tank, if it does, the issue is between rail and engine.
If you do get fuel at the rail supply, then clean out the fuel rail with some neat petrol.
Obviously, at this point the rail will be off, so change the injectors for a set which you know work correctly, reassemble, and report your findings.
Hope this helps.
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Iain@CRD
Lifer
E-Manage Ultimate believe it or not Dan, tho im aware how to solve the warm starting problem now. All to do with JP21 on the board., but the EMU could be causing the problem aswell, who installed it?
The compression gauge being faulty i doubt, ive had my gauge since about 30 years and it works fine, but yet dont rule it out.
For example, on my 4e my compression dropped to around 150psi across all 4 so it will not drop your compression by 130psi. But trying to start it alot could cause the engine to flood, which can lead to the compression being lower until the fuel evaporates.
Upon doing a compression test there is no need to remove the EFI fuse. You remove all leads from the chambers and all plugs and test them 1 at a time.
Youve done the right thing replacing all the ignition componants to rule them out. Could easily be a faulty plug, leads at that side or the dizzy contacts also could be goosed.
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
ive flushed the tank and cleaned filter on the 255 ive fitted a new rail as i broke the old one lol so thats clean ive checked there is fuel coming up to rail sigma thats all good mate..... yes i also think its weird how theres 80psi on all 4 cyclinders im going to check timing tonite and also set head up on 4e marks but again
all i did was run out of fuel put fuel back in started fine for 3 mins i then turned it off took iriduim plugs out fitted some diff plugs then it started missfiring
reason ive replaced all ignition bits is coz it was brand new engine so i did the lot and the leads i got second hand when i ran my 4e and i broke them so brought new ones with new dizzy as were clip type
yes i built the engine myself just wish i did a comp check then.... ive always thought it was never very torquey maybe ive timed it round as was saying to a mate last night i timmed it 4 times and i could never get the hole in the cam pulley to line up with the second dimple in the head always after it maybe it should be b4 the dimple ?????? i couldent get it bang on
weird how starts with fuel pressure below a bar and when you turn it up it dies when you get near a bar of fuel
all i did was run out of fuel put fuel back in started fine for 3 mins i then turned it off took iriduim plugs out fitted some diff plugs then it started missfiring
reason ive replaced all ignition bits is coz it was brand new engine so i did the lot and the leads i got second hand when i ran my 4e and i broke them so brought new ones with new dizzy as were clip type
yes i built the engine myself just wish i did a comp check then.... ive always thought it was never very torquey maybe ive timed it round as was saying to a mate last night i timmed it 4 times and i could never get the hole in the cam pulley to line up with the second dimple in the head always after it maybe it should be b4 the dimple ?????? i couldent get it bang on
weird how starts with fuel pressure below a bar and when you turn it up it dies when you get near a bar of fuel
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
Iain i havent checked the wires yet but could be as when you swap the injectors over still no fire in 1,2 so im going to try that tonite aswel
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
nick jones installed the Ultimate dan matey so got that with injector loom and standard ecu thats it , i did think it was a problem aswel but while would it fire 3,4 not 1,2 didnt think you could program it to do that
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It needs to be BANG ON. Not close but dead on. Search for a timing belt chang guide here and it will run you through everything you need. Make sure you put the belt on anitclockwise so all slack is on the tensioner side or youll mess it up again. When thats set, set your timing to 10degrees with the dizzy. Also double check your leads are on the correct spots. We're only human and we all make errors so check even the simple stuff. I also sheared the locating off the cam once which showed the timing to be perfect but the cam itself had moved, so also check your cam allignment. Timing is one of those things that you need to have right.
Sorry if any of this sounds condisending. If you built the engine yourself then its clear your no noob but ill put all this out for others as well. A car starting is the same as your fire triangle. You need fuel, air and spark timed together. If ones out, the whole lot fails. Work backwards to find the problem. You can remove intake to make sure theres air if you want to be sure. For spark, we can assume your getting spark to the dizzy as it does start. Take a spare spark plug and remove cyl 1 lead and connect plug and put it on the rocker cover. Crank engine and watch for spark. Then repeat this with 2, 3, 4. If its sparking fine then move to fuel. Remove the return line to the rail and crank it. Should piss out fuel. Id reccomend leaving your fuel reg at 40psi till you sort the issue or get a stock one to rule it out as a suspect too. Get a set of injectors which i assume you have a spare set and plug cyl 1 lead into it. Crank and look for fuel. Repeat for each plug on each cyl. Be careful not to ignite it
. If those injectors are all perfect then put them all in. Also, do your compression test at wide open throttle with all plugs removed and see how you go. If you disconnect your injector plugs when you do this youll stop it spitting out fuel while your testing. I saw a corrolla go up a while back when one of the disconnected leads sparked. E85 burns pretty well
Id say this was your low reading issue and seeing as your figures were all even Id say your engine should be ok.If all this fails then you need to start looking elsewhere. Dont do anything till you sort your timing out though. Leave it on the 5e mark lined up with the front dot.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Harry
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Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
done all that harry mate..... just havent checked timming that im gona do tonite if was fine for 3000 miles unless its jumped a tooth ill find out tonite if you read what i put this morning its weird lol yeah i built it and have built alot of engines before..... this one being my own one lol i put extra money and time in to it god takes the piss lol
Dan-The-Glanza-Man
Member +
oh boy ive got that feeling that timming jumperd with that poor weak standard belt that heads got some pressure on it with them springs and cams lol