Vacuum piping assembly 4efte ep91 (auto)

Jay

Admin
Tried taking a few pics on a car but it doesn't really make things clear. I'll see if I can make it easier, give me a few hours..
 

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Jay

Admin
This is no doubt going to confuse matters but anyhow..

Built my own from a box of spares, these are EP82 but same basics:

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Pipe to the charcoal canister connects here (the bigger one connects to the fuel vapour hard pipe from the tank):

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This skinny line heads up to the Y-piece :

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Then the shorter line goes to the throttle body feed:

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The other one goes to the VSV valve:

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The the return line from the VSV valve heads to the back of the inlet manifold:

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I can see a few issues on a wrong hand drive model, that brake servo and the pedals sit in the way of some of these bits.

The good thing is you can take all of the above, hold it really tightly and then fling it at the nearest bin - they aren't technically needed unless you have emissions concerns.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
This is no doubt going to confuse matters but anyhow..

Built my own from a box of spares, these are EP82 but same basics:

View attachment 6582

View attachment 6583

Pipe to the charcoal canister connects here (the bigger one connects to the fuel vapour hard pipe from the tank):

View attachment 6584

This skinny line heads up to the Y-piece :

View attachment 6585

Then the shorter line goes to the throttle body feed:

View attachment 6586

The other one goes to the VSV valve:

View attachment 6587

The the return line from the VSV valve heads to the back of the inlet manifold:

View attachment 6588

I can see a few issues on a wrong hand drive model, that brake servo and the pedals sit in the way of some of these bits.

The good thing is you can take all of the above, hold it really tightly and then fling it at the nearest bin - they aren't technically needed unless you have emissions concerns.
Thank you for your time. Looking at how you put the vacuum lines on the floor I can see my whole circuit. What I do not see is the vacuum pump. So I followed the pictures and I have the VSV on the left and on the right as the picture I sent you two days ago with the yellow marks on both sides of the engine. Those have 2 air hoses. The main bracket with an electric wire that goes to the high-voltage ignition coil has the two pipes that go in the throttle and in the inlet. What I still don’t figure out are the other two pipes that go in the rpm vacuum input that I miss because of course my car is different. The two pipes that go in the steering wheel pump on the Corolla I would like to keep that function 320C6F5E-3349-465B-B1AF-35D777D59595.jpeg80D1C354-FD81-4B7C-A89B-0B1F0755B528.jpeg
 
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Jay

Admin
I will attempt the same thing with the throttle valve and vacuum block for you. Just a matter of digging out an inlet after work.

The 4efe pump will foul on the turbo and oil filter. You will need to use the 4efte power steering pump. This may mean swapping the vacuum pipes to the rack as per the starlet setup but we can investigate. Its no biggie to run without them tbh but may as well try to retain them.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I will attempt the same thing with the throttle valve and vacuum block for you. Just a matter of digging out an inlet after work.

The 4efe pump will foul on the turbo and oil filter. You will need to use the 4efte power steering pump. This may mean swapping the vacuum pipes to the rack as per the starlet setup but we can investigate. Its no biggie to run without them tbh but may as well try to retain them.
Thank you. Yes, I don’t want to let them loose. I honestly don’t want to buy a Starlet steering vacuum pump. The first idea was to adopt the Corolla steering pump to the FTE But when I had them in my hands in front of the engine things became more complicated.
 

Jay

Admin
Is it revving on its own?

That'll be a vacuum leak. You will need to block all the open air holes on the inlet and throttle body.

You can attach the various valves and air lines after (if you feel the need for them).
 

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Frankieflowers

Member +
Is it revving on its own?

That'll be a vacuum leak. You will need to block all the open air holes on the inlet and throttle body.

You can attach the various valves and air lines after (if you feel the need for them).
Interesting. This means that those two air hoses on the back of the inlet are the cause of the RPM meter jumping?
 

Jay

Admin
Yes, air is leaking out of the intake and the idle drops then the ECU tries to compensate - that's what makes it go up and down like that.
 

Jay

Admin
What could be easier eh?

Reconstructed some of the vacuum system on the floor for you Frankie:

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Will get to the actual connections in a second post but a few points of interest first, this is the vacuum block on the back of the inlet manifold. It supplies a shared vacuum feed to different places. Ignore the dented end, that's done by a little Japanese man in the factory for clearance lol :


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Here's the scary bomb defusal bit under the throttle valve:

20210728_170541.jpg

I also compared the 4efte PAS pump to what looks like a Corolla/early EP80 version, you can see the vacuum feeds aren't present on the turbo model pump and there's no place for them in the body of it either. Was hoping they were just blanked off but nope. Is there any where to put them on your steering rack? Might be possible but I don't have a rack like yours here to look at.

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Jay

Admin
I sincerely hope I get this all right..

So from the ignitor bracket I've used a gold braided hose to link the long pipe to the back of the inlet:

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The first of our air lines on the throttle valve I've used red to connect it to the vacuum block:

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That black line in that pic goes from the vacuum block to the power steering port:

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and that other steering line heads up to the throttle body (black pipe not the one with wrap on it):

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At this point just to recap, we have the air lines on the throttle connected to vacuum sources. Not any coolant sources. Sorry to repeat it but a number of guys have been caught out.

So we just have the two coolant pipes to put on the throttle valve now, one goes to the hard pipe for the coolant pump, it's the one with white plastic wrap:

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Then the other one (angled slightly):

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Heads down into the thermostat housing. I can't seem to find a spare one lying about but here it is on a car, it's tucked deep below the fuel rail:

20210728_184605.jpg

I'm hoping that you've already figured out the MAP sensor, idle stabilization valve and vacuum feed for the fuel rail. If not it's no worry, can grab a few pics tomorrow.
 

SKINY

Lifer
Yea great stuff Jay, should pin all them pics for future reference, makes it easier to follow for someone that's not used to the diagrams in the book :)
 
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Jay

Admin
Should really clean all these bits and document it properly with clearer pics tbh. Could help to have it all on file for future.

Just realised that I've only shown how these pipes are meant to sit. Will show how to pipe yours Frankie to get around the missing powersteering ports when I get home later.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I sincerely hope I get this all right..

So from the ignitor bracket I've used a gold braided hose to link the long pipe to the back of the inlet:

View attachment 6598

View attachment 6599

The first of our air lines on the throttle valve I've used red to connect it to the vacuum block:

View attachment 6600

View attachment 6601

That black line in that pic goes from the vacuum block to the power steering port:

View attachment 6602

and that other steering line heads up to the throttle body (black pipe not the one with wrap on it):

View attachment 6603

At this point just to recap, we have the air lines on the throttle connected to vacuum sources. Not any coolant sources. Sorry to repeat it but a number of guys have been caught out.

So we just have the two coolant pipes to put on the throttle valve now, one goes to the hard pipe for the coolant pump, it's the one with white plastic wrap:

View attachment 6605


View attachment 6606

Then the other one (angled slightly):

View attachment 6607

Heads down into the thermostat housing. I can't seem to find a spare one lying about but here it is on a car, it's tucked deep below the fuel rail:

View attachment 6608

I'm hoping that you've already figured out the MAP sensor, idle stabilization valve and vacuum feed for the fuel rail. If not it's no worry, can grab a few pics tomorrow.
Thank you for all your help and pictures. Maps and Sarah should be fine. I am traveling today but yesterday we finally went for the first test drive. Rpm is still a little shaky. We closed the RPM pipes as you suggested. My boys will complete the work this week. I had to go to DJ in Sardinia
vacuum block is still temporary sitting there and so is the air filter. We just wanted to try the engine and alternator that we fixed. It wasn’t charging. Now it’s fine. Step-by-step we will double check every connection and vacuum.
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Jay

Admin
I'd need to take a look at a loom later but is that not the connector for the brake fluid warning lamp?

Edit: which might be on the wrong side of the bay for your car.
 
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