vaf Sensor Problem! help!!!

[javier.abraham]

Can you get a photo showing the wire connections of the FCD?

When installing a FCD, the PIM signal wire between the MAP sensor and ECU is cut. The white wire and yellow wire from the FCD are then connected to each end of the cut PIM signal wire. To be able to rule out the FCD causing code 31, you'll need to find the cut in the PIM signal wire by tracing the FCD yellow and white wires back to the vehicle wire harness and then join the PIM signal wire back together.

Can you get hold of another MAP sensor to try? If it's the MAP sensor that's causing code 31, then the easiest way to confirm it is by swapping for a known good MAP sensor.

Code 34 is indicating fuel cut has occurred, it's boost pressure related, you'll need to reduce boost pressure to stop it happening.

Here's a couple of pics i could take.

Here's all 4 wires coming out of the FCD:

Here's where the White Wire goes directly connecting to the other wire that has some sort of stripes that goes to the harness.

Here's another shot of the white wire.

Here's the Yellow wire which then converts to a white one because i think a S-AFC wire was connected between the two but i took it off. So the yellow one goes straight up even thought it's 3 different wire colors.

Here's the black wire

And Here's the Red Wire

Im not much of an electrics person lol so could you explain what is it that i have to do in a simpler way and im sorry if its causing you any trouble.

Oh and if the Air Intake Temperature wasnt the problem im gonna have to buy a new one anyways, after i cleaned it when i was putting it in place, i applied more force than necessary and broke it, here you can see that the part that screws the sensor to the intake manifold is now attached to the manifold. I turn on the car and it doesnt seem as if it will pop out since the air inside seems to pull it in place, but can i run the car to the place where im going to buy it?

 

[Texx]

The wiring doesn't look to be in the best of conditions, so I suggest it would be best to completely remove the FCD before looking at anything else.

First of all remove the FCD's red and black wires and then wrap some insulation tape around the exposed part of the wires you remove them from. Then remove the remaining 2 wires and rejoin the green wire back together:

If there isn't sufficient slack in the wire harness to be able to rejoin the green wire, then you'll need to add an extra length of wire in there to connect them up. Make sure the wires are connected well and if you have a soldering iron, solder the joints up so the wires don't break apart and again wrap some insulation tape around the exposed part of the wires. Then reset the ECU and see if any fault codes return.

With regards to the sensor in the manifold, it'll probably stay in place whilst the engine is idling, but as soon as the turbo spools and creates positive manifold pressure the sensor is likely to pop back out again. If you can some how secure it temporarily and drive the car gently to avoid the turbo creating any boost, you may be able to get to where you need to go without too much trouble.

 

[javier.abraham]

The wiring doesn't look to be in the best of conditions, so I suggest it would be best to completely remove the FCD before looking at anything else.

First of all remove the FCD's red and black wires and then wrap some insulation tape around the exposed part of the wires you remove them from. Then remove the remaining 2 wires and rejoin the green wire back together:

If there isn't sufficient slack in the wire harness to be able to rejoin the green wire, then you'll need to add an extra length of wire in there to connect them up. Make sure the wires are connected well and if you have a soldering iron, solder the joints up so the wires don't break apart and again wrap some insulation tape around the exposed part of the wires. Then reset the ECU and see if any fault codes return.

With regards to the sensor in the manifold, it'll probably stay in place whilst the engine is idling, but as soon as the turbo spools and creates positive manifold pressure the sensor is likely to pop back out again. If you can some how secure it temporarily and drive the car gently to avoid the turbo creating any boost, you may be able to get to where you need to go without too much trouble.

Thank youuuuu mate....Im gonna try that tomorrow and see what hallens

 

[javier.abraham]

Ok, so as i broke the sensor, i had to buy it anyways, these are hard to find in here but i got a hold of one, changed it and now i don't have any codes so far. Im gonna run another test later today just in case. Thank you everyone for all your help, TGGT Users rock:rockon: I'll post later the result of the next test i do just in case it comes up again.

 

[javier.abraham]

Ok, so i tested it again but i had reached fuel cut since i was setting the FCD to see in which number to put it and when i got home got Code 34. A couple days later (Today) i reset the ECU and test drive it, i didn't even reached to get any boost, just warming up the car and i didn't got any codes. So i guess problem solved for that but the fuel consumption is still the same. 25km per galon, any ideas, this is driving me crazy.

 

[HYBRID]

Just one little note, the hks fcd & the apexi safc are NOT compatable & will give the problems you are experiancing.

Kon

 

[javier.abraham]

Just one little note, the hks fcd & the apexi safc are NOT compatable & will give the problems you are experiancing.

Kon

I dont have the safc anymore itook out the safc a week ago and still have the same problem.

 

[HYBRID]

I dont have the safc anymore itook out the safc a week ago and still have the same problem.

what is thet hks fcd set to? it should be set to 8 to not hit fuel cut at 1bar..

ps make sure you have at least a rrfpr to increase fuelling or ur asking for trouble mate.

kon

 

[javier.abraham]

what is thet hks fcd set to? it should be set to 8 to not hit fuel cut at 1bar..

ps make sure you have at least a rrfpr to increase fuelling or ur asking for trouble mate.

kon

FCD is set up to 6 and the rrfpr is set to 50psi @ 12 or 13psi of boost.

Also 255lph fuel pump.

But i also feel the car is not responding well, a little slow.

Oxygen Sensor maybe? How can i check if its faulty?

 

[corofin12345]

hey mate.. did you try turning down the boost and turning off the fcd (setting 12) to see if the problem was still there??

 

[javier.abraham]

hey mate.. did you try turning down the boost and turning off the fcd (setting 12) to see if the problem was still there??

I tried but the boost isn't coming down, i turn it all the way on the boost controller and it stays the same, so right now i can't turn down boost or increase boost, i think its probably the wastegate.

 

[Texx]

the rrfpr is set to 50psi

That may be your problem there. 50psi/3.45bar seems a little high.

 

[javier.abraham]

That may be your problem there. 50psi/3.45bar seems a little high.

What should it be set to?

 

[corofin12345]

43psi/3bar i think with fpr

 

[Texx]

What should it be set to?

There's no fixed pressure to set it to, ideally you need to adjust the regulator when checking the air/fuel ratio using a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge.

If you just guess the pressure, the engine will most likely run too lean or too rich. I would expect 3bar to be closer to where it needs to be, but unless you get the AFR checked you can't be sure.

 

[javier.abraham]

There's no fixed pressure to set it to, ideally you need to adjust the regulator when checking the air/fuel ratio using a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge.

If you just guess the pressure, the engine will most likely run too lean or too rich. I would expect 3bar to be closer to where it needs to be, but unless you get the AFR checked you can't be sure.

I set it at 41psi, let's see how it goes.