Engine cutting out?
- Thread starter Schism
- Start date
Frankieflowers
Member +
That is great. Can you guys confirm that the dent in on both sides of the key? I don’t remember. If it is only on one side then my distributor is inside the camshaft properly as in the picture.
Frankieflowers
Member +
Frankieflowers
Member +
This is the answer I was waiting for. My partner did the job to fit it back in and he was pretty sure that it was correct because we took pictures before taking it out and we are as careful as we can be when we operate around engines. Yesterday I advanced the timing on diagnostics to 10* and then I disconnected the battery for a little bit to reset the ECU (if it helps). Reconnected it and checked timing without diagnostic mode and it was running between 10 and 15° on idle. It’s a mystery why it doesn’t go back down to 0. I went for a test drive and it was accelerating smoother than before.
Frankieflowers
Member +
The weird metal noise I hear from you engine might be the distributor bearing. The suspect comes from the fact that oil leaks from the distributor arm into the box where the rotor is. I asked my partner and my brother to remove it with the one I bought but they didn’t feel like doing it so it is still leaking oil right underneath on the water temperature connector. We did change the small gasket on the distributor arm but it wasn’t enough. So I guess that to get the bearing off I will have to remove the cylinder head cover and get the distributor off.
Jay
Admin
This going back to zero thing is still baffling me.
As for the seal it's not a huge job. You can slide the distributor out of the cylinder head without taking the cover off. Unplug the connector, pop the plugleads out of their holes. There's two 12mm bolts holding it in place. Mark where it is sitting before you remove it so as the timing is not upset too much.
Once that's out you just pull the O-ring seal off and slide the new one into it's place. Slotting it back into the camshaft is straightforward so long as you haven't turned the end of it. You can always remove the cam cover to make this a lot easier.
After refitting you'd be best to check and set the timing again to be 100%
As for the seal it's not a huge job. You can slide the distributor out of the cylinder head without taking the cover off. Unplug the connector, pop the plugleads out of their holes. There's two 12mm bolts holding it in place. Mark where it is sitting before you remove it so as the timing is not upset too much.
Once that's out you just pull the O-ring seal off and slide the new one into it's place. Slotting it back into the camshaft is straightforward so long as you haven't turned the end of it. You can always remove the cam cover to make this a lot easier.
After refitting you'd be best to check and set the timing again to be 100%
Frankieflowers
Member +
Yes I changed the small O-ring on the end of the distributor arm. It is genuine.
Frankieflowers
Member +
Understood. I don’t understand why it is still leaking after I already change the O-ring At the end of the home. It is genuine Toyota. That is why I think that the bearing is leaking and needs to be replaced. I already bought one but I need to know if I can replace the bearing easily.
Frankieflowers
Member +
I have the small gasket and I have the new bearing. As soon as I get my new distributor cap and rotator I will get it out and change the dust gasket and bearing.
Badmoon
Member +
Hi!
Sorry to come over and disrupt the thread, I didn't read everything in here and I don't know if the problem is solved or not but just wanted to add 2 things:
1 - I read here someone saying if a fuel pump is damaged/worn/tired the engine won't start up. I can say from experience it can continue to work, making you think the problem is somewhere else until you try another one/new one and the car suddently gets back from the dead.
2 - I had a very similar problem to the one that started this thread and it has been driving me nuts for months. In my case turned out to be a damaged detonation sensor after a blown head gasket because one of the head bolts wasn't properly torquing (the thread was worn).
Just wanted to give my opinion over this problem as it is very similar to problems I had in the past so I hope it helps somehow.
Cheers!
Sorry to come over and disrupt the thread, I didn't read everything in here and I don't know if the problem is solved or not but just wanted to add 2 things:
1 - I read here someone saying if a fuel pump is damaged/worn/tired the engine won't start up. I can say from experience it can continue to work, making you think the problem is somewhere else until you try another one/new one and the car suddently gets back from the dead.
2 - I had a very similar problem to the one that started this thread and it has been driving me nuts for months. In my case turned out to be a damaged detonation sensor after a blown head gasket because one of the head bolts wasn't properly torquing (the thread was worn).
Just wanted to give my opinion over this problem as it is very similar to problems I had in the past so I hope it helps somehow.
Cheers!
Frankieflowers
Member +
Hey guys. The only way to solve the problem was to change the distributor. This means that the big magnet was was the cause that wouldn’t get the engine running. You cannot glue two magnets together and pretend that the system will work as before even if potentially the voltage and resistance from the output is the same.
Frankieflowers
Member +
Something weird I didn’t figure out is how the airflow from the air filter does a flair sound that it wasn’t doing before we open the cylinder head. It could be the blow off valve but I will check this also. The engine is running perfect and with the new distributor all is OK. I will never know why the timing doesn’t go from +1 to 0 after disconnecting the wire in the OBD port but goes the opposite way. It will stay a mystery.