Engine cutting out?

Jay

Admin
If you didn't use the service bolt then the two gears will move. Check it's been retensioned. It would be noisy if not.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Who is the last crazy thing that happened today while we were trying to put the timing to +10 in diagnostics mode that supposed to go to zero when removing the TE1 E1 bridge bit was going up to + 15 instead. What happened? The last time it worked. I’n confused.
 

Jay

Admin
I would check your timing marks again. Just in case the cam belt has moved. The cams have been in and out a few times.

It will give you a chance to double-check the intake cam gear's are tensioned.

Also I would recommend rechecking your valve clearances again to make sure they are within specification.

Best to be sure. Especially if you are reporting abnormal engine noise.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I would check your timing marks again. Just in case the cam belt has moved. The cams have been in and out a few times.

It will give you a chance to double-check the intake cam gear's are tensioned.

Also I would recommend rechecking your valve clearances again to make sure they are within specification.

Best to be sure. Especially if you are reporting abnormal engine noise.
Agree. We will have to take the cylinder head cover back off again to check valve clearance. Today we checked the crank and fly wheel position and they are in place. I don’t know why in diagnostics mode the +10 goes up instead of going down when I take the bridge off.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
If you didn't use the service bolt then the two gears will move. Check it's been retensioned. It would be noisy if not.
If I got it right The two parts that make The intake cam gear need the ball to stay completely sealed otherwise they make noise. Well we took them off together very slowly the second time without cutting the bolts. We didn’t notice that they moved but could that make that ticking noise so loud? Maybe it would change the timing? The two gears have beeMaybe it would change the timing? The two gears have been Assembled with the dots in the right position.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
It will give you a chance to double-check the intake cam gear's are tensioned.
Today we took off the head cover and we checked valve clearance. The guy who gave me the shims at the workshop give me the wrong measures for intake two and three and exhaust four. Play double checked in gave the measures and the right shims to my partner that Took off the camshafts to fix it. In the meantime he realized that the intake cam was off pretensioning. So the first time we took them off I insisted to put a bolt in the intake cam but this time we didn’t because they were kept together so it seemed that it wasn’t necessary. We were wrong Later on tonight my partner and texted me that when he put the engine back together the ticking sound was gone. The only thing that is still unclear is the timing procedure that usually should be +10 in diagnostic mode that off diagnostic mode should go to zero. Unfortunately in our situation +10 in diagnostic mode stays where it is. I don’t know what the reason could be but I really want to figure it out.
 

Jay

Admin
Thats progress, good to know you found something that explains matters. Clearances are a torture to sort.

On the timing problem is the vehicle definitely going into diagnostic mode?

And does the rpm dip or rise when it does?
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
On the timing problem is the vehicle definitely going into diagnostic mode?

And does the rpm dip or rise when it does?
Yes it does because when I take the pin off the diagnostic box the RPM rises. The system is working but it’s suddenly working backwards. Now that the mechanics should be perfect I don’t understand why the distributor is playing tricks.
 

Jay

Admin
Thats good, sometimes the throttle position sensor needs adjusted, the rpm not altering is a giveaway.
 

Jay

Admin
Haven't encountered it before but I'm still swaying towards a timing issue?

Check that all of these line up :

20190825_114500.jpg

20190825_114513.jpg20190825_114527.jpg20190825_114535.jpg

Just to be sure to be sure.
 

Jay

Admin
I don't know if it is, I've never checked the timing without having it in diagnostic mode before.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I don't know if it is, I've never checked the timing without having it in diagnostic mode before.
If you try to do the procedure, after putting the timing on +10 in diagnostic mode if you pull out the wires from the diagnostics The Strobele should go from +10 down to 0. This is what it usually does and it did before we opened the engine the second time to fix the shims issue.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Tried tried the voltage output of the TPS. It jumps out of scale when raising. This should mean that it doesn’t work smoothly.

I tried to find a new one but I cannot find it. Could you help?

198500-3011denso
 

Jay

Admin
If you think that the TPS is not reading correctly then recalibrate it:

TPS (throttle position sensor) set up procedure



This is not a difficult task, but it is awkward to get at and needs a bit of patience to get it right.

You will need an electrical multi meter, preferably with small crocodile clips on the end of the leads, a 20 thousand (0.5mm) and a 28... https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/commu.../tutorial-tps-setup-procedure-weejohn.100946/

Yours is the four pin automatic TPS so there's a slight difference. Think you ignore one of the pins. My memory is not great though.
 

Jay

Admin
If you try to do the procedure, after putting the timing on +10 in diagnostic mode if you pull out the wires from the diagnostics The Strobele should go from +10 down to 0. This is what it usually does and it did before we opened the engine the second time to fix the shims issue.
I still can't wrap my head around this. I don't think the timing will show as 0 outside diagnostic mode.

Will take me to actually check one but it'll be a week or two till I get near a running 4e.
 
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