Agree. We will have to take the cylinder head cover back off again to check valve clearance. Today we checked the crank and fly wheel position and they are in place. I don’t know why in diagnostics mode the +10 goes up instead of going down when I take the bridge off.I would check your timing marks again. Just in case the cam belt has moved. The cams have been in and out a few times.
It will give you a chance to double-check the intake cam gear's are tensioned.
Also I would recommend rechecking your valve clearances again to make sure they are within specification.
Best to be sure. Especially if you are reporting abnormal engine noise.
If I got it right The two parts that make The intake cam gear need the ball to stay completely sealed otherwise they make noise. Well we took them off together very slowly the second time without cutting the bolts. We didn’t notice that they moved but could that make that ticking noise so loud? Maybe it would change the timing? The two gears have beeMaybe it would change the timing? The two gears have been Assembled with the dots in the right position.If you didn't use the service bolt then the two gears will move. Check it's been retensioned. It would be noisy if not.
Today we took off the head cover and we checked valve clearance. The guy who gave me the shims at the workshop give me the wrong measures for intake two and three and exhaust four. Play double checked in gave the measures and the right shims to my partner that Took off the camshafts to fix it. In the meantime he realized that the intake cam was off pretensioning. So the first time we took them off I insisted to put a bolt in the intake cam but this time we didn’t because they were kept together so it seemed that it wasn’t necessary. We were wrong Later on tonight my partner and texted me that when he put the engine back together the ticking sound was gone. The only thing that is still unclear is the timing procedure that usually should be +10 in diagnostic mode that off diagnostic mode should go to zero. Unfortunately in our situation +10 in diagnostic mode stays where it is. I don’t know what the reason could be but I really want to figure it out.It will give you a chance to double-check the intake cam gear's are tensioned.
Yes it does because when I take the pin off the diagnostic box the RPM rises. The system is working but it’s suddenly working backwards. Now that the mechanics should be perfect I don’t understand why the distributor is playing tricks.On the timing problem is the vehicle definitely going into diagnostic mode?
And does the rpm dip or rise when it does?
In diagnostic mode RPM lowers. It raises again win I unplug the wires.So when you put it into diagnostic mode the rpm dips yes?
But do you have an idea of why from diagnostic mode at +10 I end up higher rather than zero as it is supposed to be?Thats good, sometimes the throttle position sensor needs adjusted, the rpm not altering is a giveaway.
Affermative my friend. All is lined up. What’s weong that makes timing weird?Haven't encountered it before but I'm still swaying towards a timing issue?
Check that all of these line up :
View attachment 7904
View attachment 7905View attachment 7906View attachment 7907
Just to be sure to be sure.
If you try to do the procedure, after putting the timing on +10 in diagnostic mode if you pull out the wires from the diagnostics The Strobele should go from +10 down to 0. This is what it usually does and it did before we opened the engine the second time to fix the shims issue.I don't know if it is, I've never checked the timing without having it in diagnostic mode before.
I still can't wrap my head around this. I don't think the timing will show as 0 outside diagnostic mode.If you try to do the procedure, after putting the timing on +10 in diagnostic mode if you pull out the wires from the diagnostics The Strobele should go from +10 down to 0. This is what it usually does and it did before we opened the engine the second time to fix the shims issue.