Engine cutting out?

Frankieflowers

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Finally a good news!



The workshop didn’t react positivity to the idea that the engine would be better with the correct shim measures. Explaining him the symptoms the engine had made him react weirdly and told me he would have to work on it himself..i would never let that happen. I told him that if the valves would’t seal as they supposed to it was because of the rectification.
So I spoke to other professional mechanics and a different workshop that was very nice to explain that everyone makes mistakes but the good guys admit it. I went to the workshop who did the job and the owner gave me the shims I needed and I went home. I spoke about it with my partner and we decided that the best idea was to try the shims on and see what would’ve happened. If the car wouldn’t react right then we would’ve had to get the cylinder head off again to bring it to another workshop. The old-school technique is to use abrasive paste that to seal the valves perfectly. The workshop used a machinery to do it and apparently the big guys say that they don’t do their job well and the engines blow especially when they are u
Supercharged race cars. So we ended up putting the shims on and the engine seems to work again and I am very happy about it. It does a little more noise because of the new shims that apparently aren’t smooth as the original ones. Probably they will smooth out working. Today we will try the cylinder compression test again to see if something changed and we gained back the correct compression. I will update you as soon as we do the test.

This engine compression rate is 8.2 to 1. If I lower the cylinder head about 2 1/10 mm I should be able with the formula to understand the new compression ratio. Otherwise I have to buy the pipe machine and do it with liquid. A race car mechanic told us that you cannot go above 0.5 from your original compression rate otherwise you will have to smooth out the angle created between the cylinder head and the cylinders. That angle would create high temperatures that will blow your engine sooner or later.
 

Jay

Admin
Explains why I was going slightly crazy trying to read them o_O

Now I could be wrong but I think the calculations are the wrong way round?

If the clearance is too low (like a few of the intake) you need to fit a slimmer shim to get it back into spec. Equally your exhaust side needs thicker shims to take up the slack.
 

Jay

Admin
I1 0,20 - 0,15 + 2,96 - 0,1 = 3

But it should be

I1 (0,15 - 0,20) + 2,96 = 2.91

I1 0.15 minus 0.20 which is -.05

Then add the actual shim of 2.96 to find the ideal shim

Looks like a 2.90 would give the clearance required.

Does that make sense?
 
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Jay

Admin
Just reading back through those calculations and seeing you remove 1 decimeter for rectification. What is that?
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I1 0,20 - 0,15 + 2,96 - 0,1 = 3

But it should be

I1 (0,15 - 0,20) + 2,96 = 2.91

I1 0.15 minus 0.20 which is -.05

Then add the actual shim of 2.96 to find the ideal shim

Looks like a 2.90 would give the clearance required.

Does that make sense?
Yes my bad we put a 2.90 on intake one.
Check the picture. The green shims are the ones that were chosen between old and new ones. If you zoom in you can see written the number on the new ones we added.
B255F21E-7E28-4F43-95A3-47B61835188D.jpeg
 
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Jay

Admin
So long as the clearances have been rechecked and are in spec you should be okay.

I wouldn't get too caught up in hunting compression. Figures can vary from tester to tester. Generally speaking so long as all four are equal across the board (within approx 10% of each other) its a good sign.

A cylinder leakage test could help relax any fears. Or create new ones.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
So long as the clearances have been rechecked and are in spec you should be okay.

I wouldn't get too caught up in hunting compression. Figures can vary from tester to tester. Generally speaking so long as all four are equal across the board (within approx 10% of each other) its a good sign.

A cylinder leakage test could help relax any fears. Or create new ones.
I totally agree with you. I am pretty sure that the psi test they did back in England when they sold me the engine was way higher than normal. The compression test we did the other day at my friends workshop definitely responded differently because it cannot be that I lose 25 to 30 psi in a few thousand kilometers. My old 4EFE engine was killing it still at 237,000 km.

One thing I have to say that I hear the shims noise under the bonnet quite loud. My partner said it’s not the valve but it is the shim. I don’t like the noise though.
 
One thing I have to say that I hear the shims noise under the bonnet quite loud. My partner said it’s not the valve but it is the shim. I don’t like the noise though.
did you remove the cams to change the shims? if so, did you put the service bolt in the inlet cam? does it need re-tensioning? was it tensioned correctly before removal?
 
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Frankieflowers

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did you remove the cams to change the shims? if so, did you put the service bolt in the inlet cam? does it need re-tensioning? was it tensioned correctly before removal?
Yes we removed the cams. it is the second time we do it. We followed the Toyota manual step by step. Everything was put in the right position and torque is perfect. My impression is that maybe a few shims are too thick but we will see you later this weekend. BC9F525E-80F3-411C-97C9-4E65F42D0656.jpeg
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Just reading back through those calculations and seeing you remove 1 decimeter for rectification. What is that?
That is the space we lost after rectification so the valve went up a 1/10 mm. It has to be subtracted from the mew shim calculation.
 
Yes we removed the cams. it is the second time we do it. We followed the Toyota manual step by step. Everything was put in the right position and torque is perfect. My impression is that maybe a few shims are too thick but we will see you later this weekend.
:cool: once you are sure.... these are old cars, so in some instances prior owner(s)/mechanic(s) could have unintentionally let the inlet cam gear tension slip...which can makes excessive noise in the head while the engine is running
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
:cool: once you are sure.... these are old cars, so in some instances prior owner(s)/mechanic(s) could have unintentionally let the inlet cam gear tension slip...which can makes excessive noise in the head while the engine is running
We did the same procedure before changing the shims and there was no noise. Exhaust cam bolt is set to the proper torque. Inlet cam was just removed and put back into correct position. Bolts are all tightened at the correct torque. What could be the noise?
 

Jay

Admin
What he means is that the inlet cam gear is a two-piece tensioned unit. It's often overlooked.

Usual procedure is putting a bolt in it before removing the inlet cam then remember to remove the bolt on the build up.
 

Jay

Admin
That is the space we lost after rectification so the valve went up a 1/10 mm. It has to be subtracted from the mew shim calculation.
I'm not following this bit, where did the 1/10mm come off?

Is that what was skimmed off the head surface?
 
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