Engine cutting out?

[Frankieflowers]

I still can't wrap my head around this. I don't think the timing will show as 0 outside diagnostic mode.

Will take me to actually check one but it'll be a week or two till I get near a running 4e.

I have the proof that the procedure works. When I first put the fixed cylinder head on and we turned on the engine everything was right besides the shim measures. but the timing was right because we put the car in diagnostic mode and fixed it at plus 10. When we disconnected diagnostics diagnostics the strobo and RPM went down to zero. Now it’s doing the opposite. It goes from 10 to 15. So weird.

 

[Frankieflowers]

TPS might be the problem? Question is why everything was working fine before I took the cylinder head off to get IT welded? Why if the valves were rectified properly the car is doing a metal blowing weird noise around 2500 RPM and if I push the gas it slows down instead of kicking off? We already opened the cylinder cover two times to check shim clearances. Removed number one and two on intake and number four on exhaust to make sure all clearances were in spec. The cylinder head isn’t blowing. The turbo is fine. What is making that noise? We modified a little bit the turbo side of the exhaust manifold to make it smoother. Could it make a weird turbulence? Just a little modification? Everyone has done that and I never heard about weird noises when upgrading exhaust manifold restrictions. So where does the noise come from? Did they really ruin the valve sitting area that it creates blowing noises and doesn’t let the car accelerate smoothly? So how come cylinder compression is 165 psi throughout all cylinders?
When we put the rectified cylinder head on and close the engine, before acknowledging that shims were out of specification, we tested the engine timing end it was +10 in diagnostic mode. Was going to zero without diagnostics. That is how it should be. When we opened the cylinder cover again to move around shims then the timing wouldn’t back to normal. It was going from +10 to +15 instead of going down when taking diagnostic mode off. The distributor was took out and took back in in its precise position that you cannot mistake. What is going on?
Another weird phenomenon is intake noise it does win I drop the gas pedal. You know the scratch noise you hear when you’re Bove isn’t set up properly? There is definitely an air to fuel rate issue. The symptoms that I read in older threads are definitely related to the TPS. Hi cylinder head temperature. Brown white spark plugs. Spitting exhaust pipe on idle.

 

[Frankieflowers]

I still can't wrap my head around this. I don't think the timing will show as 0 outside diagnostic mode.

Will take me to actually check one but it'll be a week or two till I get near a running 4e.

Thread 'how to set timing *'
https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/how-to-set-timing.41744/

@SKINY

 

[gorganl2000]

i'm not sure how useful this is and i'm going off of memory from many moons ago...so forgive me if its incorrect
when the timing is set with the diagnostic te1, e1 bridged its 10 degrees stable
if you don't bridge, the the timing "jumps" around the 10 degree mark +/- a few degrees

 

[Frankieflowers]

i'm not sure how useful this is and i'm going off of memory from many moons ago...so forgive me if its incorrect
when the timing is set with the diagnostic te1, e1 bridged its 10 degrees stable
if you don't bridge, the the timing "jumps" around the 10 degree mark +/- a few degrees

You are correct. In diagnostic mode as you said it’s perfect on 10*. But when you take the bridge off it should go down on Ido to zero. It did it the first time we put the engine back together. For some reason it doesn’t do it anymore when we opened the cylinder head cover again to switch shims. Thing is that the distributor cannot be installed incorrectly. It has a dent that goes in the camshaft. What could have happened?

 

[gorganl2000]

somehow i don't recall the timing going to zero when the bridge is removed/off....i think it was flickering around 10 degrees, just not being stable at exact 10 degrees...sometimes a little below, sometimes a little above

again, drawing on some long-term memory here

 

[SKINY]

Can't understand this Fankie, only thing I can think of is the Distribution device Installed incorrectly.
Try taking the cap off and removing the distributor until you can turn the roter arm, turn it through 180 degrees and pop it back in again see if that makes a difference.
Havn't done the timing on a starlet yet but plenty of celicas and it's at 10 when bridged and 0 when not.

 

[gorganl2000]

hopefully another member with a working starlet and timing light close at hand can provide some comparative information...unfortunately i don't have access to a timing light

 

[Frankieflowers]

If I get a cylinder head off to get welded because of a crack and I put it back with every detail in place, how could the cylinder compression be perfect but the engine RPM rays have corporation issues? The valves have been rectified but if the compression is good then apparently there is no leak. How could the engine have changed?

 

[Frankieflowers]

Can't understand this Fankie, only thing I can think of is the Distribution device Installed incorrectly.
Try taking the cap off and removing the distributor until you can turn the roter arm, turn it through 180 degrees and pop it back in again see if that makes a difference.
Havn't done the timing on a starlet yet but plenty of celicas and it's at 10 when bridged and 0 when not.

I have discussed about that with my brother and my partner but we couldn’t figure out how it could turn 100° if there is no way you move anything inside the distributor. I will take the cap off and unscrew the rotor to try to do what you said and switch it 180°. Let’s see what happens. Thank you

 

[SKINY]

Yea the end of the distributor has a key that can be fitted 2 ways, don't take the arm off. When you pop the distributor out you will see what I mean

 

[Frankieflowers]

Yea the end of the distributor has a key that can be fitted 2 ways, don't take the arm off. When you pop the distributor out you will see what I mean

So I just have to unscrew the distributor plate, pop it off and turn the key 180°? I don’t recall seeing it move while working on tje cylinder head.

 

[WhiteOverGoldMK1GT]

hopefully another member with a working starlet and timing light close at hand can provide some comparative information...unfortunately i don't have access to a timing light

i do actually, magical stuff, no idea how they work.
but before you say go time your engine, mine runs stock Timing, with any deviations accounted for in the ecu software

 

[WhiteOverGoldMK1GT]

So I just have to unscrew the distributor plate, pop it off and turn the key 180°? I don’t recall seeing it move while working on tje cylinder head.

View attachment 7938View attachment 7937View attachment 7939

yep thats the ticket, circled in red,

 

[SKINY]

Yes mate

 

[Jay]

Do these make sense?

 

[Frankieflowers]

Do these make sense?

What I am discussing with @SKINY is that he is saying that I can put the distributor key in the camshaft specific site 180° Trump how it’s actually fit in. When we took the distributor out and it happened already three times, we put it back in without moving it. That is why we thought that maybe something happened while it was sitting there. So if you confirm that the distributor key can be turned 180° and it would fit the same way in the camshaft I will have to consider it because the timing is not acting like it should. What do you say?

 

[Frankieflowers]

I guess that in order to turn the point key of the distributor 180° and refill it in the camshaft I have to get the cylinder head off and the two bolts that keep the distributor in position. Isn’t there another way to do it? What if I take the rotor off? Will the key with his shaft come out so I can turn it to 180° and put it back in?

 

[SKINY]

Excellent pictures to show what I mean there Jay

 

[SKINY]

I guess that in order to turn the point key of the distributor 180° and refill it in the camshaft I have to get the cylinder head off and the two bolts that keep the distributor in position. Isn’t there another way to do it? What if I take the rotor off? Will the key with his shaft come out so I can turn it to 180° and put it back in?

Just undo the bolts and slip it out then turn the arm bud, no need to take the head off