Discussion in 'Rolling Road Section' started by Bullet00th, Apr 5, 2008.
it's an example, check the img link
I was talking to a friend from AUS who told me of the starlet that made over 400 there. Was a 5e running a GT28. Revved to 9500k.
nice try i guess!!
silly oobuz, get some videos mate if its real
One of the fastest FF cars in Japan is a Honda Fit (Jazz) running a 2.4l K24 engine, which produces 350hp and 271lb ft.
It lapped Tsukuba in 1m 0.4 seconds. 3 seconds faster than the new GTR.
With the correct mods, setup and knowledge, it is obvious that FF can use big power. For people that think 220hp is the max a FF chassis can handle, do you think it would of got this great lap time with just that power? Nope!
What high power Glanza's do you know of? There does not seem to be to many?
Theres a glanza in Aus which is over 308hp ATW.
You made my point, any fool can post a dyno sheet, and any dyno can be made to read a higher power figure, with different types of dynos who knows the difference between them, boosted gt in australia made 380hp but it was only done on the shops dyno and was not done in shootout mode, which means they can change the ramp rates to up the hp with the car making no more power.
Another thing we played with was poping the clutch during the run which gave the van we had on at the time, another 150hp on top of the 60hp it read with a normal run.
If you are thinking who the F#&k is this, most people know me as Zuboo and i help harry from australia setup his starlet and drag race my swift. As you can tell im not a fan of dynos for a hp read out, but for a tunning tool they are the only way to go.
The only way to see how well you car goes vs other starlets around the world is over the quarter, because you dont know how they were dynoed
spoken very well m8!
Seems like its the most sense iv seen in this thread!
Very very well put!
People have this kind of argument with evo's.
They all say about how laggy big turbo's are etc. But in reality a decent setup car with a big turbo will make more power than a hairdryer turbo throughout 90% of the RPM range.
In a fwd your best getting a good ECU, (something the starlet lacks) and then having different boost in each gear.
On my civic i run
9psi in 1st,
and probably 20+ in 4th
maybe over 25 in 5th.
As for what a starlet chassis can handle, what a silly statement. 220bhp comes in many shapes and forms. Some good tyres and LSD and good suspension there's no reason why i couldn't take 280+ in only 3rd gear.
The example dyno graph if you look in the top right hand corner says that it is for a Corvette Z06 , it is also in WHP not flywheel figures...
There are plenty of dyno graphs of all sorts on our website in the dyno section....
oh.i knew it was u zuboo...lol........i always look at login in names in many ways
very good point by the way
and keep up the good info on the aus site
boostedGT made 380whp guys..this is close to 500bhp. highest to date on 4e i believe..awesome!
What kind of power are people making on blitz k24 set up.
And what boost are you running to make the power.
Just looking what to expect when I put mine on rolling road:drive:
ben made 220ATF @ 1bar i think on his k24 set up
is there any details on this car?
how is 380WHP near 500BHP fly on fwd car?
I'd say it would be around 430BHP Fly....... You dont loose 120BHP through tranny on FWD....
I don't agree with that statement. The important aspect is the area under the curve, be it torque or power. The more area under the curve then the more overall performance in both power and torque is available over the rev range and through the gears.
There is ALWAYS an ideal solution, whether people go out the way to obtain this solution or just follow the crowd is another topic.
A full aftermarket ECU is an ideal solution, a modification not so popular on these forums. I will always encourage people to take this route though. The boost limit is a sensible approach to obtaining decent traction, there's a few guys over on the daihatsu forums who've taken this approach.
I'm sure this comment has been twisted.
It's not just about the chassis, it's all the drivetrain components, reliability. For racing your exit speed, quick throttle response makes up heavily for a small lack of high end power - it's just not needed, ESPECIALLY on the road.
From what I've seen on these forums as a non biased viewer, most of the quickest track and 1/4 mile times here have had midrange power and torque.
Perhaps they're the ones that just make the events because they're not breaking components on their car every week
Some info on Boosted's GT:
Modifications: race built forged engine, comprehensive fuel and ignition system, everything is either new or custom made. Garrett GT rollerbearing turbo, HKS injectors, Walbro 255l/h in-tank pump, Bosch motorsport pump on custom surge tank with pushlock fittings and flame proof 3/8" fuel lines. Microtech LT10s ecu with X4 ignition module, Bosch coils (4x), MSD leads, Tighe custom grind cams, Ross pistons, Crower conrods, Total Seal file back gapless rings. ARP 12mm head studs, o-ringed block, 5 angle valve cut, bigger valve springs, custom intake and exhaust manifolds, HPC coated turbo, manifold and pistons. PWR intercooler, PWR radiator, PWR oil cooler, remote oil filter, oil thermostat. Engine detailed with House of Kolor candy red over silver, braided lines and genuine Speedflow fittings all thru the engine bay. Almost $2500 in braided line and fittings alone!
MR2 dba slotted discs with 4 piston Wilwood racing calipers, TRD lines, slotted rear rotors with TRD lines. Comes with spare Wilwood brake pads. Full house suspension setup (coilovers, swaybars, strut braces, anti-lift/castor kit, modified engine mounts, engine strut. Direct Clutch Service custom clutch with 3000lb pressure plate and 4 puck button clutch, lightened flywheel, lighweight under-driven crank pulley. Very light pedal to press but stacks of grip. TRD limited slip differential.
Eboost2 electronic boost controller, autometer oil pressure gauge, autometer air/fuel ratio gauge, microtech 2 line handset, RPM 4 point harnesses, MOMO wheel, MOMO pedals, MOMO gearknob. 16" lighweight rims with Falken Azenis ST115 tyres front and rear - only 5000kms on these tyres, comes with one spare ST115 tyre (around 2500kms on it)
Many more mods, too many to list. Makes 381.1hp on 23psi, and just over 255hp at the wheels on 14psi boost. Highway driving returns 7.8 - 8.1L per 100km on BP98 fuel. This is THE most powerful 4E turbo engine in Australia and possibly the known tuning world and is still on a pump fuel setup. This sort of power should allow the car to run 120mph+ if you were to drag race it.
Hope it helps.
Hence the reason i am not following the crowd and putting some research and custom built turbo to the test, i have confidence in it but the proof will only be there once it is on the rollers.
Anyone can get a high figure on the dyno.Some of the high powered starlets in Oz used some of the aformentioned tricks to get great dyno printouts.I know this for fact.The Starlet chassis can handle and cope admirably with high power if it's well set up.Personally I prefer a Starlet where you can freely use all it's power unlike high powered Starlets where you have to be restrained when putting on the power.
Separate names with a comma.