cold transmission = difficult gear changes?

dark_knight

Member +
revs too low

now here's something interesting; yesterday as i was at it adjusting my idle using the idle screw on the throttle body, it would raise the revs slightly (i had a mate checking for me) and it got to about 1k then as i turned the idle screw more, it dipped the revs instead of raising it. it was revving pretty low (around 500) but not stalling. interesting.

is this normal idle screw behavior..?
 
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dark_knight

Member +
idle adjustment screw

@corofin12345: the idle adjust screw, on the throttle body, where the gas pedal cable attaches to the throttle plate actuator. mine is adjustable via an allen screw locked by an 8mm nut. i'm sure it's similar on your cars.. with a stock 4e-fte intake.
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
@corofin12345: the idle adjust screw, on the throttle body, where the gas pedal cable attaches to the throttle plate actuator. mine is adjustable via an allen screw locked by an 8mm nut. i'm sure it's similar on your cars.. with a stock 4e-fte intake.

that isnt what you want to adjust. you will now need to reset that and adjust the tps as that will now most likely be wrong
 

dark_knight

Member +
the tps & idling

pardon my asking but isn't the tps just a switch to tell the ecu whether the throttle is closed or at wot..? why would i need to adjust it (again) when i'm only after slightly tweaking my idling..?i didn't think i turned the idle adjust screw that far to upset this, it was about only 1 and 1/4 turn.

ps: i've never touched it before so it's all stock/at stock position.
 
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corofin12345

Member +
the idle screw is under the little rubber gromet on top of inlet mani.. as said above.. ull have to re adjust what you did and hopefully you wnt have to re adjust the tps cause its a pain to do
 

dark_knight

Member +
curiosity, that's all

@corofin12345: btw, i'm not saying i have a problem with my idling as it is now, just stating that it was interesting that the more i turned the idle adjustment screw (clockwise), it got to a point when revs went down instead of up. but then when i turned it in reverse (anti-clockwise), revs and again climbed the initial high then kept dropping as i kept winding back. was an interesting note. lemi repeat that i don't have a problem with my current setup.. :)
 

corofin12345

Member +
@corofin12345: btw, i'm not saying i have a problem with my idling as it is now, just stating that it was interesting that the more i turned the idle adjustment screw (clockwise), it got to a point when revs went down instead of up. but then when i turned it in reverse (anti-clockwise), revs and again climbed the initial high then kept dropping as i kept winding back. was an interesting note. lemi repeat that i don't have a problem with my current setup.. :)

im confused as always.. did you adjust the idle screw on top on inlet mani or the one at throttle pully?
 

dark_knight

Member +
i adjusted the one at the throttle pulley. sorry this is an upside-down image but it's the only one i could find. the green arrow shows where the screw i adjusted is located - take a peek.
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
i adjusted the one at the throttle pulley. sorry this is an upside-down image but it's the only one i could find. the green arrow shows where the screw i adjusted is located - take a peek.

adjusting that will alter your tps so it will need resetting unless you are really lucky and got it back to the exact same place it was. i dont know the exact procedure for setting up the idle as the throttle stop screw must come into it somewhere!?!? i have only ever adjusted the idle with the air bleed ontop of the throttle body.
 

corofin12345

Member +
anticlockwise and it will close the butterfly and clockwise it will open the butterfly.. i wouldnt go near that tbh.. to get a good idle use the idle screw on top on the inlet under rubber gromet.. this doesntffect the butterfly.. it uses a port instead
 
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corofin12345

Member +
baat-2.jpg
 

dark_knight

Member +
air bleed valve

alright mate. thanks. i would never have thought to look there. will give it a go this evening after sprinting home.. :)
repped..
 

Texx

Super Moderator
i dont know the exact procedure for setting up the idle as the throttle stop screw must come into it somewhere!?!?

The throttle stop screw is there to support the throttle plate when the return spring forces it closed. If the stop screw wasn't there the throttle plate would probably become damaged fairly quickly. It's easier to set the throttle body up with it removed from the inlet manifold, but not essential.

  • Remove inlet pipe from throttle body
  • Twist the throttle plate open and clean both the plate and throttle body
  • Back off throttle stop screw until until there is a visible gap between the screw and stop lever
  • Open and close the throttle plate several times, ensure the throttle is not allowed to be slammed closed by the spring
  • Adjust the stop screw so as it touches the stop lever without causing the throttle plate to move from it's closed position (having a dial gauge resting on the throttle plate makes this a lot more accurate)
  • Tighten the stop screw lock nut
  • Open and close the throttle plate several times and check there isn't a gap between the stop screw and stop lever, carry out screw adjustment again if necessary
  • Carry out TPS setup as per click
  • Re-install everything previously removed and then run the engine until the radiator cooling fan has come on at least twice
  • Ensure all electrical systems and devices are switched off
  • Short terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic port
  • Confirm the ECU is flashing the normal code click
  • Connect a inductive pulse pick-up tachometer to the spark plug lead on No.1 cylinder
  • Adjust the idle screw on the top of the throttle body until the engine speed settles at 700rpm (if the cooling fan kicks in, wait for it to stop and the engine speed to stablise before continuing)
  • Check the ignition timing is set at 10°BTDC adjust if necessary
  • If ignition timing is adjusted recheck engine speed and adjust if necessary
  • Remove short between terminals TE1 and E1
  • Confirm the engine speed increases to approx 800rpm

That should be the idle set correctly. If the engine doesn't idle as expected then there may well be an issue elsewhere, possible causes could include a faulty sensor, poor earth connection, inlet air leak or a mechanical engine fault.
 

dark_knight

Member +
thanks..

@Texx: thanks for the extremely helpful insight to this topic but we really have strayed from the topic at hand.. :D lol.. thanks again though. repped!
 

dark_knight

Member +
hypoid oil

@weeJohn: searched everywhere in our local market for 75w-90 oil but the closest was 85w-90. will the hypoid oil help even with the cold shifts or this is a glitch with the overall box design..?
 

Texx

Super Moderator
Hypoid oil helps to lubricate the gears, it'll not help much to improve synchro and hub engagement. You need to find a more suitable transmission oil than the 85w-90 your using.
 
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