Engine Problem - Second Cylinder Overfueling?

TO82

Member +
change injectors on the same engine.. and see what happens. if the same cylinder still is over fueling.. check the connection.. i don't know much about electricals but would test the connection with a multimeter while the engine is running on 3 cylinders and then try the same on another connection and see if the results are the same. hope you understood what im trying to say lol

Ye i get what your saying about the power at the Injector. I dont have any other injectors available atm only got the one i took out spare.

But as i said before i think the ecu is causing the other cylinders to run lean, obviously this will be only when boosting low and not much load, but do you think it will cause any damage?
 

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
Ye i get what your saying about the power at the Injector. I dont have any other injectors available atm only got the one i took out spare.

But as i said before i think the ecu is causing the other cylinders to run lean, obviously this will be only when boosting low and not much load, but do you think it will cause any damage?

change injectors place only not to another one. for example from the first to the second cylinder
 

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
Ok, i already swaped the second injector so i dont think it will make a differece, worth a try though cheers.

yeah but it could be that the other injector was sticky too. i doubt it ! but worth trying for a 5 minutes job
 

corofin12345

Member +
What would that mean, and would it not cause low compression?

nope.. its in at the rokker cover under the valve springs..could b letting oil in,clogging up the spark plug and in turn causing the ecu 2 lean out the rest... also ave u checked ur oil and water levels?
 

TO82

Member +
nope.. its in at the rokker cover under the valve springs..could b letting oil in,clogging up the spark plug and in turn causing the ecu 2 lean out the rest... also ave u checked ur oil and water levels?

Ye its burning oil, but i think that mite be the turbo im not 100% tho any test i can do to find out if the valve guides are worn?
 

jabran200

Member +
You have done everything I can think of tbh. You have ruled out

injectors
plugs
leads
dizzy
rotor
compression

The ecu can not make 1 cylinder leaner than the rest as I believe they use batch fire so a pair of cylinders would be lean if it were the ecu. You have ruled the components that would likely cause failure so you now only have the valves left.

I think you need to now rule out valves which can be done via a leakdown test and cyl 2 at TDC.
 

TO82

Member +
You have done everything I can think of tbh. You have ruled out

injectors
plugs
leads
dizzy
rotor
compression

The ecu can not make 1 cylinder leaner than the rest as I believe they use batch fire so a pair of cylinders would be lean if it were the ecu. You have ruled the components that would likely cause failure so you now only have the valves left.

I think you need to now rule out valves which can be done via a leakdown test and cyl 2 at TDC.

Cheers for that mate, thats exactly what i was thinking about the ECU. Will have to try get a leakdown test done, will this show if its leaking through the Vavle guides?
 

jabran200

Member +
The leakdown won't tell you if the valve guides are worn but If you are getting smoke during closed throttle decel i.e you rev and let go of the gas and smoke still comes out the exhaust then that will tell you if they are worn.

The leakdown will generally tell you if valve's are worn and stuff like that.
 

corofin12345

Member +
The leakdown won't tell you if the valve guides are worn but If you are getting smoke during closed throttle decel i.e you rev and let go of the gas and smoke still comes out the exhaust then that will tell you if they are worn.

The leakdown will generally tell you if valve's are worn and stuff like that.

true for ya mate... its a tough one..:confused:
 

TO82

Member +
Right cheers guys il have to see how i get on, will get someone to check for the smoke though.
 

Texx

Super Moderator
Get yourself a long thin screwdriver or rod, something long enough to reach the piston crown from the spark plug hole and securely attach (use some insulation tape) some tissue to the end. Let the engine idle from cold for about 10-15 minutes, shut it off and pull the spark plug from No.2 cylinder. Then carefully lower the screwdriver/rod into the spark plug hole until the tissue reaches the piston crown. Give it a gentle wiggle so you rub the tissue on the piston and then carefully pull it back out and see if it's absorbed any oil.
 

TO82

Member +
Get yourself a long thin screwdriver or rod, something long enough to reach the piston crown from the spark plug hole and securely attach (use some insulation tape) some tissue to the end. Let the engine idle from cold for about 10-15 minutes, shut it off and pull the spark plug from No.2 cylinder. Then carefully lower the screwdriver/rod into the spark plug hole until the tissue reaches the piston crown. Give it a gentle wiggle so you rub the tissue on the piston and then carefully pull it back out and see if it's absorbed any oil.

Cheers man il give that ago.
 

TO82

Member +
Well i just done what Texx said above, well i didnt have anything to fit down the hole, but i had a light down the hole and could see somthing wet (im thinking oil) on top of the piston in the 2nd cylinder, whereas all the others where dry.

So is this pointing to Valve guides? and if so im i best off just swapping the head for another?

Cheers
 

Texx

Super Moderator
I would try changing the valve stem oil seals first before pulling the head off.

http://board.tercelonline.com/viewthread.php?tid=28724&page=1#pid322212

It's a bit of a rough way of changing them, but by the sounds of things you won't have anything to lose by trying it that way.

If stem seals don't cure the problem, then it's likely to be caused by a worn valve guide. If that's the case, you'd be better off getting hold of another cylinder head and getting it rebuilt before swapping it over.
 

TO82

Member +
Cheers, is there any way to tell weather its the seal or the guide without swaping the seals, as if i swaped the seals and it was still the same id be fuked off :mad: lol

I have two spare heads at home, so i duno weather to buy a new headgasket kit, and timing belt kit, and just swap the head over the Xmas holidays?

But then again i duno if the heads are 100% either? I duno what to do, swaping the seals doesnt look so easy tbh, what sort of price are the seals does anyone know?

So im guessing oil is leaking into the cylinder and stoping the Fuel/air (with added oil lol) mixture from igniting?
 

Texx

Super Moderator
Cheers, is there any way to tell weather its the seal or the guide without swaping the seals, as if i swaped the seals and it was still the same id be fuked off :mad: lol


It'll be difficult to be certain without removing the head.


I have two spare heads at home, so i duno weather to buy a new headgasket kit, and timing belt kit, and just swap the head over the Xmas holidays?

But then again i duno if the heads are 100% either?


You could just have one of your spare heads rebuilt and then swap it over.


I duno what to do, swaping the seals doesnt look so easy tbh, what sort of price are the seals does anyone know?


They are a lot easier to replace with the head off. I would think it would be more economical to buy a cylinder head gasket set than just buying the stem seals on their own. No idea of price though.


So im guessing oil is leaking into the cylinder and stoping the Fuel/air (with added oil lol) mixture from igniting?


In simple terms, yes.
 

TO82

Member +
Cheers for the help buddy, i think the best bet is to buy the whole topend gasket kit from toyota (with H/g and valve steam seals) and rebuild a spare head i have then swap it over.

I was thinking am i beter disconecting the Lambda sensor as i think its causing the other 3 cylinders to run lean, or should it be ok?
 
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