big problem with ross 74mm pistons...

Dont even fit into my standard Bores... I didnt want to take my block out and get it rebored, apparently they fit in standard bores fine.. Mine dont!! upside down the top half fits fine, but whn the top of the piston is pointing into the air as normal the bottom of the piston doesnt even want to sit in any bore.. theyre deffinatly 74mm too!... what to do :(
 

Phil

Super Moderator
pull out the engine, take strip the bottom end and leave the pistons the block and the piston spec sheet with the engineer, he'll sort the tolerances.

Phil
 

350ep70gr

Member +
Dont even fit into my standard Bores... I didnt want to take my block out and get it rebored, apparently they fit in standard bores fine.. Mine dont!! upside down the top half fits fine, but whn the top of the piston is pointing into the air as normal the bottom of the piston doesnt even want to sit in any bore.. theyre deffinatly 74mm too!... what to do :(

Possibly your engine has develop a step on the top of the bore thats why you can not push it inside.You can cut this step with a special tool by hand (sory dont know how you call that tool) or have it honed. Your problem isnt nothing major and may happen if engine run already for 150.000 or more. If you see the bore you can see the upper part at about 1cm being like brown.This brown part must be smoothened by a tool or honing.
I assume your ross are not 74,5! Double check it and mesure them below the pin holles.

P.s. You should hone the all cylinder tho...before new ross fitting.If you use toatal seal rings or ross rings i strongly recomend honing(not rebore).

Chris
 
i wonder what that tool is!... the pistons slot in the top near that brown 1cm line but then dont go any further :( theres no where near me who can sort this either! i dont want to take crank out because it will takes weeks for main bearings to come, ideally i dont want to take my engine out again, i need the car for 4 days at college every week :(
 

350ep70gr

Member +

This is a cheap honing tool that can possibly do your job if you know what you doing and how to mesure the bore /piston clearence.
You also need to clean very very well the particles after this job and it is way better doing it without the crankshaft.

i wonder what that tool is!... the pistons slot in the top near that brown 1cm line but then dont go any further :( theres no where near me who can sort this either! i dont want to take crank out because it will takes weeks for main bearings to come, ideally i dont want to take my engine out again, i need the car for 4 days at college every week :(

My personal advice is to take the Taxi for few days and change also the bearings when you are there. Do it right or you will do it twice mate. (This is rule)

Chris
 
well i bought a honing tool... and its shit... took ages to do 1 bore and the piston ''just'' fits at the top of the block, so fuck it... engine out!
 
This is a cheap honing tool that can possibly do your job if you know what you doing and how to mesure the bore /piston clearence.
You also need to clean very very well the particles after this job and it is way better doing it without the crankshaft.



My personal advice is to take the Taxi for few days and change also the bearings when you are there. Do it right or you will do it twice mate. (This is rule)

Chris

Btw im on my 2nd bottom end...

ive already gone through 2 headgaskets(dave b shit items), 6 pistons(cracked) 1 crank(big end bearings), 2 rods(big end bearings)...LOL not the best of luck
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
well i bought a honing tool... and its shit... took ages to do 1 bore and the piston ''just'' fits at the top of the block, so fuck it... engine out!

lol, it's not a 5 min job.

you will also need to check the piston to bore clearance, and the piston ring gap
 

scot-ish

Member +
well i bought a honing tool... and its shit... took ages to do 1 bore and the piston ''just'' fits at the top of the block, so fuck it... engine out!

youve posted that, only 2 hours after posting about a honing tool on ebay, and considering youve never done it before, no wonder it turned out shit in under 2 hours

weebooster said:
Btw im on my 2nd bottom end...

ive already gone through 2 headgaskets(dave b shit items), 6 pistons(cracked) 1 crank(big end bearings), 2 rods(big end bearings)...LOL not the best of luck

maybe your just shit at building engines back up, and need to just pay some1 who knows what ther doing, youve cracked 6 pistons, there is something going terribly wrong,
 

Phil

Super Moderator
cal.......... do it once properly.

you've had a few goes at it now take the engine out, buy a bus pass and forge the 4e. :)

job done.

Phil
 
Dont even fit into my standard Bores... I didnt want to take my block out and get it rebored, apparently they fit in standard bores fine.. Mine dont!! upside down the top half fits fine, but whn the top of the piston is pointing into the air as normal the bottom of the piston doesnt even want to sit in any bore.. theyre deffinatly 74mm too!... what to do :(

did u get that studs
 

HYBRID

Super Moderator <a href="http://www.toyotagtturbo.
Possibly your engine has develop a step on the top of the bore thats why you can not push it inside.You can cut this step with a special tool by hand (sory dont know how you call that tool) or have it honed. Your problem isnt nothing major and may happen if engine run already for 150.000 or more. If you see the bore you can see the upper part at about 1cm being like brown.This brown part must be smoothened by a tool or honing.
I assume your ross are not 74,5! Double check it and mesure them below the pin holles.

P.s. You should hone the all cylinder tho...before new ross fitting.If you use toatal seal rings or ross rings i strongly recomend honing(not rebore).

Chris

Very well said chris.. one more thing cal, i would get my block skimmed as well, sounds like your engine has overheated massively once in the past causing a little "step" as chris explained, however this could indicate as well that the surface of the block may be uneven.. best pull ur finger out & get it honned/skimmed properly, unless u want this engine to have a dated lifespan before uv started to enjoy it..

if ur gonna do it, do it once, do it propperly, or just dont fucking bother... :teach:

kon
 
aye!... im gonna get my block decked, bores honed and bored, and get my block also knotched for if i get different rods. Acl mains, big ends and thrust bearings. Taking engine out tomoro/weekend so should be done soon hopefully

Im not shit at building 4e's,and i dont think theres another lad the same age as me with this amount of experience of rebuilding a 4e... my car will be running in a week and i know it

Its the way i treat it why things cock up.. i dont think any car il ever own will be reliable with me driving it. everycar ive managed to fuck up in some way. after having 6 cars in the last 17months since i was 17 you would of thought it take it easy lol

p.s i have a mint spare block, and the pistons dont fit in that either, thats the block im getting the work done to, this block in it atm wont be used
 
Last edited:

weeJohn

Lifer
i Kno pal i kno :( seem to be WAY far out tbf!!... 75mm maybe :S


Has it ever occourred to you that if you measure the pistons at the top and the bottom that you might find out.....

a) If the pistons are 74mm and

b) If the pistons have a problem and are made wrong and are a larger diameter on the skirt than the top?

It sounds like you have a lot of experience on how to do things half arsed for someone your age. Listen to the comments from a few of the older slightly more experienced members above and actually learn something worthwhile.
 
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