Blown my 2nd engine :@ whats going on????

G

GT_Chris

Member +
Right ive gone and blown my 2nd engine, within 5months i do not no why its happening or why its overboosting

Spec
Full HKS hipower exhaust system
de-cat
meshed turbo
FCD
standard mani

it usually runs 0.7-0.8 bar but the night it blown up i looked at the gauge at it hit 1.2 bar got no reason, and the FCD did not even kick in?

Why is it overboosting?

tho where ive removed the EFi pipe i left the pipe coming from the actuator that come up beside the rocker cover unplug due to the fact the efi pipe was gone.
 
T

tgidavid

Member +
If your reaching 1.2bar then the FCD "is" working. Remember, the FCD is suppose to negate the stock ecu programming which cuts the fuel at a certain boost pressure. Have you broken in the engine before going balls out with the boost? The rings, bearings, etc. need time to breakin properly. Adding stress to those pieces before they settle in would cause engine failure.
 
turbojim

turbojim

Lifer
the fcd removes fuel cut man it doesn activate it and your getting boost creep cause its colder at night and the wastegate on the turbo isn ported (common problem)

you should stick on the efi pipe again and get a adjustable actuator and ebc

iv probably missed some info but someone will let you no
 
durmz

durmz

Member +
at 1.2 bar the car doesnt no how to fuel it, so it doesnt = bang!

take ure fcd out and get a hks actuator next time
 
MARK@CMBAUTOS

MARK@CMBAUTOS

Trader
have u not got an uprated fuelpump ? they do get old with age . as ur running mesh on ur turbo theres a good chance it weill hit 1.2 with the cold wet weather . have u ever had ur fueling / dizzy timming / cheaked ?
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
the fcd is the problem mate.

the hks fcd leans out the fuelling accross the whole rev range, regardless of boost.

you need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator then off to a rolling road to get it sorted.

this is the least you can do.

you could also remove the fcd and put it back to standard.

or you can invest in some decent engine management and get it tuned.

also the fcd removes the fuel cut so fuel cut will never ever kick in
remember when it comes to tuning you cant cut corners
 
lingl9z

lingl9z

Member +
I dunno weather i missed it or not but if you've an FCD you should also have an rrfrp to sort the fueling out the FCD alone is masking the problem thus not helping at all, as said adjustable actuator, get the EFI pipe back on, or port the wastegate!
 
scot-ish

scot-ish

Member +
Ricky@JAP MAD said:
it'll be 7/8 or 9 as he said he not hitting fuel cut
Click to expand...

yeh, but 7 8 or 9, and the car driving at 0.8 bar, wont blow an engine, i assumed that it being even lower than that, will cause it to run even leaner, and could be the cause. he didnt state why how the last engine went pop.

altho the main prob is why it jumped to 1.2 bar, and how long did it stay at that? i dont think one little blast at that should kill an engine, unless he had the FCD set right low.

does the HKS FCD not kick in, just at a higher level of boost?? or is that the JAM one? so by lowering the number on the POT, reduced the chance of the FCD still kicking in at higher boost? and thats the purpose of having the POT, so you can reduce the MAP sensor, but it will still increase with the MAP sensor signal, just it will be offset, and the lower the settin on the FCD, the higher the offset?
 
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Gilly2006

Gilly2006

Member +
This is one of the reasons I don't use fcds, my advise is to go and get an emanage blue unit (piggyback ecu) and get it mapped. Hope you get it sorted soon tho!
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
scot-ish said:
altho the main prob is why it jumped to 1.2 bar, and how long did it stay at that? i dont think one little blast at that should kill an engine, unless he had the FCD set right low.

does the HKS FCD not kick in, just at a higher level of boost?? or is that the JAM one? so by lowering the number on the POT, reduced the chance of the FCD still kicking in at higher boost? and thats the purpose of having the POT, so you can reduce the MAP sensor, but it will still increase with the MAP sensor signal, just it will be offset, and the lower the settin on the FCD, the higher the offset?
Click to expand...

it jumped because he suffers boost creep.

the hks fcd works as a resistor, and therefore lowers the voltage of the map sensor the ecu reads across the whole range from -1bar to + 1bar


the jam and greddy fcd's are clamp type devices, and they let the map sensor send the ecu the correct readings until the point of just below fuel cut and then sends the ecu this voltage.

fuel cut on starlets is typicaly at 4.15v which from memory is about 0.85bar.



so if he just has a hks fcd fitted with no other fueling upgrades aswell, the engine will be massively leaning out under all driving conditions, which is very bad for the engine.

also i just realised he is also using a stock manifold this also doesnt help maters when cylinder temps are much higher than they would normally be.


simple terms is:

ecu thinks the engine is producing 0.4bar boost and fuels accordingly

problem is the engine is actually seing 0.6bar.

now clearly thats not god for the engine and therefore causes issues. it's the same when the car sees negative and positive boost pressure
 
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GTti

GTti

Member +
Yup, FCD with no method of reading the AFR or fuel modifications is a recipe for a blown engine. Never owned one and never will.

The cost to repair one blown engine is probably around the same as a piggy back ECU and mapping, I'd recommend you to invest in an eManage or similar low cost but effective solution.

You live and learn. Good info Ricky.
 
G

GT_Chris

Member +
Just had a look at the Fuel Cut Defender.....its set to 7.....what shall i set it to when i get a new engine? cos i rather it keep hitting fuel cut then it not and then blowing up again.

the night before it blew up i did fit a new rotor arm in the dizzy cap cause the car was suffering from a misfire when i put my foot down.

also it was only overboosting on the night engine blow up......othernights it was fine......although i can remember back in the summer it was hitting 0.9bar at times but i didnt think nothing of it cause it only crept upto it for like a second

The reason why the first engine blown aswell was due to the same reason im sure.
 
M

MarcoFTE

Member +
Dude. Remove the FCD, that's the whole idea of saving your engine, the fuel cut. Setting it into another level will destroy your third engine!!!
 
Sheldon

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
GT_Chris said:
Just had a look at the Fuel Cut Defender.....its set to 7.....what shall i set it to when i get a new engine? cos i rather it keep hitting fuel cut then it not and then blowing up again.

the night before it blew up i did fit a new rotor arm in the dizzy cap cause the car was suffering from a misfire when i put my foot down.

also it was only overboosting on the night engine blow up......othernights it was fine......although i can remember back in the summer it was hitting 0.9bar at times but i didnt think nothing of it cause it only crept upto it for like a second

The reason why the first engine blown aswell was due to the same reason im sure.
Click to expand...

remove that fcd and keep it on standard boost. :|
 
sx_turbo

sx_turbo

Lifer
GT_Chris said:
Just had a look at the Fuel Cut Defender.....its set to 7.....what shall i set it to when i get a new engine? cos i rather it keep hitting fuel cut then it not and then blowing up again.

the night before it blew up i did fit a new rotor arm in the dizzy cap cause the car was suffering from a misfire when i put my foot down.

also it was only overboosting on the night engine blow up......othernights it was fine......although i can remember back in the summer it was hitting 0.9bar at times but i didnt think nothing of it cause it only crept upto it for like a second

The reason why the first engine blown aswell was due to the same reason im sure.
Click to expand...




read everything i wrote.

make sure you read it word for word.

then you wil answer your question yourself
 
G

GT_Chris

Member +
Cheers for the advice guys

how do you remove it? im no good with things like this? do i just pull the wires out of the ECU and it will then be removed or?
 
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