i checked all the possible different parts. I need to find a 4efte water output to have 2 water feeds for the turbo. Or maybe I can use an adaptor tirbo feed kot?
Can ypu help me with that?
I still haven’t found it, but worst case scenario, I can swap it from my turbo engine. Maybe someone on the Forum has an extra one?Missed this bit. You can run the turbo without coolant lines (more common on the TD04 setups) but a CT9 will really prefer some help on higher boost applications. Ideally find a used turbo thermostat housing to swap across.
Do you suggest boring the cylinders to 74.5 mm or keep them OEM?What part numbers are you getting for the two cylinder heads?
I definitely had differences between the E11 Corolla head and the turbo models, nothing major but enough to make the part numbers different.
Valves are the same, the valve springs make the difference (stronger).
With regards to the block, rebuild it with forged pistons and rods to suit the bores and crank. The bearings will be measured and specced by your engineering shop. Basically you are just strengthening it to deal with boost. Replace all the seals and the oil pump whilst it is apart just like a regular overhaul.
Sump on the turbo models has a return port on the front, otherwise both 4EFE and 4EFTE use the same sump/pick up/pumps as each other. One thing to be aware of is that there were variations depending on model year/region so be careful to replace like for like.
Yes. I will install a new water pump and oil pump. I already bought the overhaul OEM kit to replace all gaskets. I need to buy the correct oil sump return pipe to fit the 4efe sump Which aftermarket adapter ahould I buy? I’ll get it welded in the sump together with the head cover AN10 adapters for the upgraded oil breathers.Basically you are just strengthening it to deal with boost. Replace all the seals and the oil pump whilst it is apart just like a regular overhaul
Ok with the hose but ai have to make the hole and fit a aluminium pipe in the sump as the 4efe doesn’t have it. I need to know which size AN I should buy. It would be like this one in the picture. Probably a AN12?The return pipe from turbo to sump is just a 90⁰ oil resistant silicone bend. You would cut to suit during installation.
Thank you for the info. I had a chat with Sean Hurley amd he confirms that the engine block has to be machined to fit the Maxpeedingrods I bought.You need to speak to the engine machinist who will be building your engine. They will inspect the block, crank and head then advise which exact size components you will need.
I would suggest only buy 74mm pistons after the block has been properly inspected. Or go 74.5mm and have it rebored.
The ACL bearing kit can be bought as a complete set, in standard size if the crank is ok.
Headgasket thickness relates to compression ratio. Thinner the gasket then higher the compression ratio will be. So depends on what Wossnor pistons you buy and how much boost you want to run.
ARP headstuds do require block and head machine work.
ARP main studs, you ideally need the crank to be line bored.
Again, an engine machinist is the best person to speak to.
Thank you for the info! I am speaking with TD as well. They have a valve uprated valve spring kit they have developed. Don’t know the quality but should be ok? It costs a bit less. I should buy it together with the remaining parts I need which qre:Many people have run over 300bhp using ARP main bolts and not studs.
I think it is worthwhile going for the studs.
As for the valve springs, I went for this kit, springs and titanium retainers.
Not had them fitted yet as still collecting more parts so I can't comment on the performance.